"Max" wrote in
b.com:

Your input is appreciated and I have "googled" the issue.
There are several individuals posting here (and abpw) whose expertise
seems obvious (to me at least).
I subscribe to: Fine Woodworking, Woodcraft, Wood, Woodworker's
Journal, and American Woodworker and enjoy each magazine.
I am persuaded, however, that most of the reviews presented by those
publications are somewhat biased toward advertisers (and in some
cases, toward their sponsors like Woodcraft and Rockler)
Having become reasonably familiar with the type of work in which some
of the members of the rec.ww engage, I have come to rely on their
judgment more than that of the magazines.
By considering my question and the individual who might respond, I
believe I can have more information upon which to make a decision
regarding a particular purchase.
To me, in the above regard, there is never too much information.

And a 10" Cabinet Saw is a 10" Cabinet Saw no matter the *size* of the
shop in which it is serving.
So it seems to me that any 10" Cabinet Saw short of an industrial
model should be under consideration.
That sort of rules out the Altendorf, SCM, etc.
Having narrowed it down to that, I was seeking input.
Prior to the discussion I would have completely ruled out a Grizzly
but........now..........
The saw I have now is a Delta 10" Tilting Arbor saw; a hybrid. It has
served me well but does have some shortcomings, chiefly among which is
the dust collection.
My son wants it. I'm not opposed to letting him have it.

Questions have been posed by the previous input:
1. Is a Grizzly (foreign made) better than a Powermatic or Unisaw?
2. What features do others consider most important? (never mind the
fence, it can be purchased separately if necessary)
I don't dismiss anyone's suggestions.

Max

On my Ridgid, the power switch mounts to the fence rail. This is rather
inconvenient when I'm making a cut and have to shut the saw off in the
middle of it. A switch that mounts on the body with a wide paddle for a
knee kick would be nice to have. (There's probably an aftermarket option
to add just that.)

I haven't been happy with most blade guards and splitters. The ones I've
made extensive use of mount far behind the blade and are thus subject to
free play that can put undesired pressure on the board. Newer saws have
riving knives mounted directly behind the blade (so they'll move up and
down with it) and that seems to be a much better solution.

These are two of the things that came up last night as I was sawing.
Some of the wood wanted to close up on the blade, and one did so so much
that I had to shut the saw off and back it out of the cut. The
splitter/riving knife would have prevented the closing of the kerf, while
being able to access the switch easily would have made shutting the saw
off much less risky.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.