On Feb 27, 11:48*am, bud-- wrote:
On 2/27/2012 10:20 AM, wrote:
On Feb 27, 11:09 am, *wrote:
On 2/27/2012 7:42 AM, wrote:
On Feb 26, 10:42 pm, * *wrote:
On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 16:47:36 -0800 (PST), "
* *wrote:
On Feb 26, 7:25 pm, * *wrote:
On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:55:23 -0500, * *wrote:
On 2/26/2012 4:28 PM, Doug wrote:
Still struggling to get it right. *Its wired up but not working. *I
just checked the connections but I'm going to re-check for the hot
wire at both ends (hot/main and leg/remote) so I can confirm its wired
according to the instruction. *It really doesn't seem to be that hard
but obviously I'm wrong. * One thing tho, the remote switch didn't
have a ground terminal so the ground in the box (plastic) is wired
together but not connected to this remote switch. *Can this ground not
connected to this remote switch cause me not to have a working timer?
No, it has nothing to do with the ground
Thanks. *I was beginning to draw that conclusion reading more about
this timer and its wiring. *I just read the URL I gave in my previous
post here and if you go to the timer and go to "read more" which is
underscored, that goes on to say that the timer must replace the
switch that receives power from the breaker box. * I think I got my
switch / timer in the reverse so I will have to reverse it and wire up
the same. * My switch in the garage is across from the breaker box so
likely that is the switch receiving power from the box
I thought you used a meter to determine the hot wire?
With all the wires disconnected there should be one
hot wire at one of the switch locations.
I think that's my mistake when I checked the remote end, I had the
switch connected at the hot end so I got the continuation of the hot
wire at the remote end.... ah yes, my rookie mistake. * I'm starting
to get the idea of this 3 way switch. *I guess with enough mistakes
and such, I'm learning!!!
and since I
struggled to try everything else but reversing my timer/switch, I
think I found why I couldn't get it right. *Why they couldn't just put
this in the instructions for wiring, I don't know. *I had left an
email for the mfgr before I read this reference a few days ago about
if it mattered where the timer should be installed and they never got
back to me. *Odd too because it was left on their website as a support
question.
Now if I didn't know which 3 way switch is being fed the power from
the breaker box and couldn't see the breaker box, using just a tester,
is there a way to tell?
Yes, with the switches disconnected only one wire
will be hot.
Do I have to have a switch wired in to tell
from the remote end?
If power is feeding to the "near" end switch, then with no
switch there power is not going to make it to
the "remote" end.
* *I guess I need to study the 3 way switch
schematics again. *Thanks for the reply again.
I looked at the schematic from your link
that shows wiring the timer in
to a 3-way circuit and it makes no sense to me.
They show the timer switch on the power end of
the arrangement and on the regular 3 way switch at
the other location only 2 terminals are used, those
normally used for the travelers, to connect back to the
timer switch. That means you have wires connected
only to the two sides of a double throw switch and
nothing connected to the pole. *In other words, it's
permanently open no matter what position the
switch is in.
I thought the other end was merely wired as a 2 way switch. *Gosh I
hope I don't screw it up again after I reverse my present setup. * I
should know tomorrow afternoon when I can get back to this.- Hide quoted text -
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The way they show that schematic it sure looks to
me like it's wired using the wrong two terminals
for it to be wired as an ordinary switch. *Look at
the schematic preceeding it where they show a 3 way
circuit with two ordinary 3 way switches. *The terminal
on the far right is clearly the pole/common
of the right hand switch.
In the subsequent schematic for the timer, there
is nothing connected to that right most terminal.
In which case, as I said, that 3 way switch is
permanently open.
To use it as a 2 way switch
you'd use one of the terminals on the left side
of the switch and the one on the right. *And you'd
have to make sure you put it in the box in the
correct orientiation so up is on, depending on
which of the two terminals you decide to use.
Too much knowledge can be a problem. We understand how 3-way switches work.
I had a lot of trouble with the SP switch at the 'light' end. I finally
figured out it is in a control circuit, not a power circuit.
According to the schematic he provided it's not
really in any circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html
Doesn't load for me. I usedhttp://www.intermatic.com/~/media/Intermatic/Documentation/Timers/In-...
I assume it is the same.
The problem is, it's not the same at all.
I agree the above diagram
shows the 3-way used as a regular on/off switch. That other
diagram shows something very different. First it shows
a typical 3 way switch diagram with a 3-way switch on the
left connected to power. Two traveler wires go from that to
the 3-way switch on the right. Coming out the other
side of the far switch, the wire goes to the light.
With me so far, right?
Then then show how to use the timer 3-way switch.
They use it to replace the 3-way switch on the power
side. Then they show two wires going from this new
switch to THE TERMINALS ON THE FAR SWITCH
THAT WERE CONNECTED TO THE TRAVELERS.
Nothing is connected to the pole/common terminal
that previously went to the light. In other words, that
switch is doing nothing.
He should wire it per the Intermatic diagram above.
It shows the standard 3 way
switch at the light end wired using only the two
terminals that the travelers would normally
connect to. *Nothing is connected to the common/
pole termimal. *In other words, those wires never
connect to each other or to anything else.
If the 'far' switch closed then wires blue and red at the timer are
connected. Far switch open then blue and red are not connected. The only
way the circuit made sense to me (eventually) was that the timer was
sensing whether red-blue were open or closed. It could use the battery
to sense open/closed. And that is consistent with the other 2 items I
mentioned, which don't make sense if the 'far' switch is being used in a
power circuit.
It doesn't make sense that the 'far' switch is in a power circuit, so
there must be another answer. IMHO the power circuit is the timer
switches black-blue on or off. (In a single switch configuration that is
what the timer does.)
Alternate ideas?
There is always the gnome theory of cause and effect (everything is
caused by gnomes).
--
bud--- Hide quoted text -
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