In article ,
(RBK) wrote:

Well I took the class. I am going to give a very short description of
what I found out because the instructor will be giving the details in
a Fine Woodworking Master Class to be published in the next issue or
so.

Really appreciate the report. Quite helpful and will be looking towards
the article. Nice to work with someone "respected".

Veneer Saw - Used to trim the veneer. They cost about $20 - $30 and
will probably need a little tuning up before use. Remove any burrs on
the base ect. When you cut with the saw you will probably use some
kind of straightedge. A 2X4 with a jointed edge will give you a large
flat surface that the back of the
veneer saw can index on to give you a good straight 90 degree cut.

I bought one for C$13. I got about that much worth of saw; needed quite
a bit of work, and needs a little more, but does the trick OK now.


Veneer Hammer - Look like a window squeegee. Used to press and scrap
the veneer to get the glue flat, air bubbles out and the veneer edges
tightly joined (if you are matching seams). You can buy one or you can
look at a picture of one get yourself a piece of hardwood a large
dowel for the handle(sometime omitted) and a small piece of 1/8 - 1/4
inch brass to inlay and epoxy on the edge to a grove cut in the
hardwood edge.

Heh, in the meantime I went off and made one. I used 1/8" aluminum.
Pretty rough, but should do the job:
http://homepage.mac.com/paulkierstea...eer_hammer.jpg

Glue pot - Heats the hide glue and keeps it a proper temperature. You
can use double boilers or any thing else you can dream up to
accomplish the same but it's not a good idea to have the glue overheat
(or not be hot enough) so use a thermometer if you don't use a glue
pot, be careful.


I have been using a "Hot Pot" (C$20 at WalMart) with a candy
thermometer. Seems to work well, so long as you get the water in it hot
_first_, otherwise I think the heating element in the bottom would
overheat the glue. I just have the glue in a mason jar.


Hand plane with a serrated blade or rough sandpaper - Used to prepare
the base material before gluing. They make a specialty hand plane if
you can find one but sandpaper will work fine. Rough up the surface
and clean the sandpaper dust off.

Good tip. On my couple of trial runs, I didn't rough it up. I think this
might be especially important on something like MDF which is so smooth
to start.

Common house iron - Not a good idea to use your spouse's good one. Get
a used one. Used with a wet rag between the iron and veneer to reheat
and loosen veneer to correct any voids, glue pocket etc. In fact to
whole piece of veneer can be removed if necessary. Good idea to
practice this before you really do it to a good piece.

I am using the one I use to wax my skis...

3. The edges are the hardest part. Make sure all the edges are
"squeezed" flat and are completely glued all around. Be careful as it
is easy to crack the edge of any vaneer overlaping the base.

I'll say. In my two trial runs, I had the hardest time with the edges.

How well did the MDF work? Did it suck up glue like crazy? My first two
tries varied...first one was one some very crappy softwood plywood. It
telegraphed through. The second was on a scrap of baltic birch ply; no
telegraphing in that case. But I have been eyeing some MDF...

Thanks for the update, much appreciated.