On Feb 26, 1:20*am, H. Neary wrote:
On Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:59:00 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:
On Feb 26, 12:38 am, H. Neary wrote:
On Sat, 25 Feb 2012 15:01:00 -0800 (PST), Jim K
wrote:
On Feb 25, 8:49 pm, H. Neary wrote:
On Sat, 25 Feb 2012 12:01:58 -0800 (PST), "js.b1"
wrote:
Quick & dirty way...
- Mitre cut 30-degree six pieces of 6x1" timber, fit on perfectly flat
base, glue end grain until they form a 180-degree arch. Repeat from
the OTHER side so the joints are offset (stretcher bond in brickwork
speak), glue & screw the front & back together.
- Clamp to a flat surface. Create a bar of steel to link a plunge
router to the centre of the arch. Sweep the router repeatedly
increasing the depth each time until you have a perfect arch.
- Waterproof glue is required, kiln dried timber joinery grade 4
(IIRC) a good idea.
Very slow way...
- Buy veneer of whatever you want. Create former for the arch, screwed
& glued layers of MDF. Fold veneer around arch, glue, repeat until a
sufficient large number of bent layers built up. Leave to set as long
as necessary.
The quick & dirty way works fine, I have seen it done in both UK &
USA. I suspect, however, in the USA that curved arches are available
readily if not quite off the shelf (California for one). If you do not
have a plunge router you could jigsaw (decent pendulum ideally), then
simply plane & sand into the desired shape. I have seen that done on a
UK porch arch, vastly cheaper than the several hundred some fool place
wanted for a steam bent frame and built up as a laminate with
waterproof glue it was immensely strong).
Thank you. I never thought of this approach. It does give me the idea
that I might be able to cut and glue layers of MDF to fit the arch and
size the layers so that instead of fiddling about with a router I can
match the profile of the verticals of the frame, which I intend to buy
from Wickes.
I wouldn't bend the MDF to fit, I would just produce the arch from
many cut "U" shapes, like the spars of a boat all glued on top of one
another.
The only remaining problem will be the opening mechanism. The corridor
is too wide for one door, so I might have to go electrical
???? this is getting surreal ;)
as I havn't
seen anything on the market similar to the handle and rod arrangement
on two door electrical cabinets.
???
erm multipoint lock kits? router dooor edge to fit and then shoot
bolts top and bottom are possible? tho will they have your size??
I do not want to use individual bolts as it is an interior door.
I'm not sure what is available but with no central post, I would only
have the doorframe on the floor and ceiling to lock into.
I have never seen intereor double doors use anything but bolts in one
or both doors.
http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/P..._and_Accessori...
Jim K
Thank you.
I thought you meant those actually.
Now in my dim & distant youth, they would have been fine. Even now the
top one's would be O/K.
But even with the Co Codamol I would have difficulty operating the
floor bolts on a day to day basis.
I appreciate the catalogue page incidentally. We have a copy of that
book at work and I had forgot about it completely. I think the floor
bolt receptacles would do excellent service fitted in the doors
themselves. I'll dig the thing out Monday and see if it brings on
inspiration.
Again Thanks Jim,
Much appreciated.
HN
So you want to go to the trouble of making a fancy arch, but are going
to do it with junk mdf, and fit it with junk cardboard doors that you
cant attach a proper mechanism to. I'd get real wood doors, and fit a
handle that operates top and bottom bolts at once. Or for effect you
could even make an oversize wooden one and surface mount it.
NT