On 24 Feb 2012 04:36:03 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:



[...]

The critical point is that this set screw would not go into * the hole
it came out of in the first place*. It was not particularly difficult
to unscrew either.

It was a perfect fit into a 5/16-18 screw gauge.

Which suggests that the threaded hole in the hub was metric,
while the screw was not.

But how many threads did the gauge engage. Mine (a
"Screw-Chckr" plate) is not much over two threads when you get that
coarse -- not enough to tell the difference between 5/16-18 and M8.x1.5.

All of them (about 5).

I can find no evidence that M8 with 1.5 mm pitch exists - all the
references I have seen mention only 1mm and 1.25 mm pitch in this
size. What are the odds that a set screw of this nature would be of so
uncommon configuration?

A result of a search for M8x1.5 on Google (one of many returns,
BTW).

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/industrial-tools/Dies1-Round/m8x1-5-hss-tmx-round-adjustable-die-metric-left-hand-1-inch-od?utm_source=google_pr;utm_medium=cpc;utm_campaig n=Dies-Round-google_pr;infoParam.campaignId=T9F

And I see hints that it was used in some automotive
applications.

This one is sort of confusing:

http://www.ngpracing.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=5035

Because it has a "code" of "M8-1.25-32CR", but down in the description I
find:

Thread size / Pitch = M8mm x 1.5

Note that the Japanese have their own interpretation of metric
threads, which do not always match the ISO threads, so they may have
used it as well.

And the saws come from either China or Taiwan, and they tend to
use sizes which are very close to fractional inch sizes, so they may use
the M8x1.5 *because* it is so close to 5/16-18. And that screw may have
vibrated out in transportation, and the importers screwed in the nearest
inch size, because it *looked* like it fit.

Interesting. None of the tables I pulled up showed 1.5 mm in M8.

I pulled out another set screw, this one on the handle of the vise. It
is also 5/16-18. The hole takes UNC screw without difficulty.

Pull the hub, and re-tap *fully* for the 5/16-18 and you should
be fine.

Ah, would that I could. I tried a cut today. The driven wheel started
walking - obviously I did not have the set screw right. However, as
the Liquid Wrench clearly did some good over the two days I thought I
would remove the wheel and have a look. That is when I discovered that
the wheel will not come off due to the hinge bar which stops the last
1/8" movement or so. I looked at it this way and that and for a moment
I thought about disassembling the whole saw which would have been a
bit of a problem single-handed. To cut a long story short I
repositioned the wheel, tightened the set screw better, re-mounted the
blade, guard etc., re-did the tracking and tension and cut. I must
have done some good as the cut was the best I have had from this thing
ever: Right angles all around on a 1.25" cut. The saw blade sits where
it is supposed to on the wheels.

Good enough for me.

Now I am going to replace that stupid little wheel that functions as a
vise lever with something more sensible.

Enjoy,

No, but a bit of pain builds character. Or so they tell me.

Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC