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Karl Townsend Karl Townsend is offline
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Default band sawing annealed 304 SS?

On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 00:38:33 -0500, Ed Huntress
wrote:

On Thu, 23 Feb 2012 22:55:39 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Thu, 23 Feb 2012 19:35:24 -0800 (PST), aribert neumann
wrote:

My wanted a touch-pad for her recipes in the kitchen - so I got her
one for Christmas. Now she is looking for a holder that will store
the pad up under the upper cabinets and pivot down and out for her to
read. The only articulating holder that I found was for an I-pad and
hers is not the same size. I am thinking of a bracket mounted to the
underside of the upper cabinet with a simple pivot, a pair of links
that are saw cut for the touch-pad to slip into. I am thinking of
making the links out of annealed 304 SS. Do I need to be concerned
about work hardening from sawing? I have very little experience
working w/ SS.


I've got a whole bunch of 304 sheet. I basically can't bandsaw it, it
just dulls the blade


If you want to see a discussion of bandsawing 304 - 316 stainless, I
wrote an article about it last month that will at least explain what's
going on, and what bandsaw blade makers do to overcome it:

http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/fabs...ruary2012/#/44

It's not easy with small bandsaws to get enough pressure on the cut.
Most people try to use a fine-pitch blade, and that just work-hardens
the material.

If you're hacksawing by hand, keep up the pressure, don't let the
blade skate over the work, and use the coarsest-tooth blade you can
get away with.

303 is easier to saw. Just don't use it for outdoors projects.


Ed, I've got close to a 1000 sq ft of 304 in thickness from 0.060 to
0.250. Is there a Starret VTF blade for this? I have a roll in
bandsaw and can put a fair bit of pressure on the blade.

I have cut some of the thicker stuff with a 10-14 bimetal blade. But
it had better be a valuable project cause the blade won't last very
long. Mostly, I just get out the plasma cutter or Modern brand
gobbler.

Karl