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Wild_Bill Wild_Bill is offline
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Default Metal bandsaw tracking

Never seen the stuff, as far as I'm aware, but any abrasive that doesn't cut
thru metal effectively, is apparently the wrong abrasive.
I'm not seeing follow-up comments, but maybe Ed or someone else knows what
rock drill rod is.

Some abrasive products just don't shed dull grit, exposing fresh and sharp
grit as the attempted cutting is taking place.
Then what happens is the dull particles heat up and glaze in place..
basically forming a smooth glass surface with zero cutting action.

The other major drawback of some (generally softer) materials is, the
cutting abrasive gets clogged easily, likely not the case with with the rock
drill rod.
Anyone who's attempted to grind "just a little bit" off of a copper or
aluminum piece knows what happens very quickly to a grinding wheel which
otherwise is very effective at grinding steel.

A thick layer of copper embedded in hard security bars will effectively stop
a common abrasive cutting disk that would otherwise cut thru the security
bar material relatively easily.
Additionally, random odd-shaped bits of HSS, hard ball brearings and carbide
shards embedded in the bars would limit the effectiveness of most saw
blades.

Certain materials definitely need specific cutting products and procedures,
but I could only guess that a disk with diamond grit "might'a could'a" been
much more efficient at cutting the rock drill rod.

--
WB
..........


"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

"Wild_Bill" wrote

Lastly, avoid cutting OBF old bed frame.. the hard spots will wipe away
the tips of the blade teeth immediately.

WB


What do you suggest for 1-3/4" rock drill rod? I spent over an hour making
one ragged cut with an abrasive chop saw.

jsw