On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 03:19:59 -0600, Ignoramus10095
wrote:

On 2012-02-15, Pete C. wrote:

Ignoramus10095 wrote:

On 2012-02-15, Pete C. wrote:

azotic wrote:
Onboard computer bad ?
Check fuel line pressure ?

Looks like throttle body injection (TBI), lots of stuff to go wrong.

Best Regards
Tom.

Yes, if it is TBI it does not have a carburetor, it has a throttle body
which only superficially looks like a carb. The TBI setup has an in-tank
high(er) pressure fuel pump and two fuel injectors in the throttle body.
You can check to see if the injectors are being opened by the PCM with
"NOID" lights which you can usually borrow from an auto parts place
(with deposit). If the injectors are getting driven by the PCM they may
well be clogged/stuck, I don't believe a set of those injectors is all
that expensive. If they are not getting driven by the PCM there could be
issues with sensors like crankshaft or camshaft position.

What model year is it? I had a 1990 FS Blazer with the TBI 350 and the
TBI 454 was an option. I *think* I still have the manuals for it around.

This does seem to be TBI (not that I know much) and the engine is a
Chevy 454!

If you have anything on it, I would love to get a copy or a scan!

http://wpnet.us/TBI_Fuel_Control.pdf

Sorry it's not in order, my scanner has ADF but no provisions for double
sided.

Pete, thanks, I have downloaded it and I am studying it.

One thing that'll make your life a lot easier, it looks like there's a
Cotter Clip by the radiator support, and a support bar over the axle -
those molded plastic fender liners look like they pop right out for
much easier service access to the engine compartment. The tire is
still in the way, but we can't fix everything.

TBI is like EFI - if any of the sensors are bad it won't go, and
certain sensors it doesn't set trouble codes for - for example, if the
Crankshaft Position Sensor goes bad the EFI computer simply thinks the
engine isn't turning over. You have to hook up a voltmeter and look
for the proper signals coming from the sensors as you crank it over.

Check for proper fuel pressures at the tank and at the TB - even if
the fuel pump is good, a bad pressure regulator can choke it off, or
shunt the fuel flow back to the tank on the return line. There will
be a spec in the book as to how many gallons per minute it pumps, you
direct the flow into a bottle and hot-wire the pump.

Change the fuel filter on general principles, but it probably is not
the cause of a no-start - even if it's hopelessly clogged for pulling
a hill (and you'll feel the drivability issues as it is starved for
fuel) it would have to be totally cemented shut to not flow enough to
start and idle.

* * * * * * * * *

Oh, and Right NOW you need to peel off the stickers / buff out/ paint
over/ cover up the prior owner's name on the doors and the DOT numbers
on the fenders. The prior owners should have obscured the name and
numbers themselves the minute it changed hands, or required you to do
it ASAP.

All sorts of unwanted excitement could come from that incorrect ID or
DOT# - you for falsification of ID, or a cop runs the numbers and
finds that the associated insurance policy with that DOT# was
cancelled...

Either way, they now have the authority to pull you over to find out
what's up, and they have the Probable Cause to start fishing for any
spare change in your pockets - With visions of Dollar Signs dancing in
their heads. SFX: Cash Register {Ka-CHING!}

Commercial drivers license and proper endorsements, medical
certificate, insurance, Driver's Daily Vehicle Safety Inspection log
book, Driver's Log Books, required equipment (flares, triangles,
flags, etc.) busted tail light, cut tire or below minimum tread depth,
fire extinguisher current, missing or improper mud-flaps, dirt or
gravel load not tarped...

-- Bruce --