In article ,
"Guv Bob" wrote:

"Guv Bob" wrote in message
m...
This has absolutely nothing to do with RCM, but you fellers are the highly
intelly gent, worldly types (not unlike my self... hyuk hyuk) only smarter.

Anyway, I need to either figure out how to rebuild the air flow sensor assy
on an old Eclipse or shell out $400+ for a rebuilt one or donate it for next
to nothing off my taxes.

Anyone have any tips on rebuilding one of these or know anyone who can do it?
I got no responses from the car groups, and thought maybe one of the
electronics RCM gurus here might point me in the right direction with this.

It goes on a 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse (same as Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser).
This one's DOHC non-turbo.

Here's the sensor:
http://tinyurl.com/MassAirFlowSensor-90-Eclipse

New part is $650, used is $450. None at the local junk yards around here.

Thanks in advance.

Bob


Last time you remember....... well, I swapped my MAS into another Eclipse and
saw that it was OK, so that's good and bad. Now back to square one.

After a lot of tinkering, it starts and runs fine at road speed. Dies at
idle and is idling rich. First thought was to manually adjust the idle
mixture. Wrong. Can't do it on this car -- everything comes from the
computer.

So I'm going to take another swing at it this weekend. Any suggestions from
the wise folks here what to look at next?

Many thanks in advance.

Bob

Some (but not all) of that older stuff could display 'codes' in a
fashion. First you need your factory shop manual, then either by
shorting connector cavities, or possibly a switch on the computer, you'd
count blinks of either the 'check engine light', or an LED on the
computer proper. You'd then look up your blink code number/s in the
manual.

I still have a hunch that you may have a bad coolant temp sensor.
Usually when they go bad, they tell the computer that the engine is
really cold. The computer, dumb and dutiful as it is, believes this, and
based on the sensor data runs the engine very richŠ mimicking some or
all of the duties of the choke on older cars. The sensor check procedure
is quick, simple, and detailed in your factory shop manual.

Other trees to bark up are a possibly stuck on or leaking cold start
valve, and/or it's timer/control circuit. If so equipped, these were
just an injector spraying into the intake manifold (another choke like
enrichment device from days past). Some had various timer
circuits/devices to turn the cold start valve on when/if necessary, and
off again soon as it was not... but if they failed could leave the valve
on. These cold start valves systems were problematic with some models.
Complete info is, you guessed it, right there in your factory shop
manual.

Your manual should also have extensive troubleshooting charts and
related info.

Let us know how it comes out!

Erik