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advancing hand plane blade to keep shaving wood
(Alan W) wrote in message . com...
Need some real world advise on an issue:
No 4 Stanley Handyman smoother, stock blade.
Junk the blade. Get either a Hock high carbon replacement or an A2
cryo treated blade. Even these might not help all that much, seeing
as you're using purpleheart. This wood is not only hard, it's full of
silica, which will dull your blade no matter what you're doing.
Assuming the frog is secure, and your cap iron is tight, *do *not*
advance the blade to keep it cutting. You'll only get poor planing
results. When the plane stops cutting, it's time to rehone.
You also might want to mind the bevel of the blade. If it's slightly
dubbed/rounded, the clearance angle (the delta of bevel and the frog
angle, enabling the blade to actually cut into the wood) may be
effectively reduced to zero at the cutting edge, and your plane will
stop cutting.
Use of a honing jig or if honing freehand - a side-to-side motion -
should help solve this.
IMNSHO, the best solution is to avoid planing purpleheart if you can.
Seriously. It's closer to working stone than woodworking. Planing
purpleheart is like engaging BAD in an intellectual debate - you're
dealing with a very dense subject that will quickly dull everything in
sight.
Good luck, you'll need it.
O'Deen
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