Guv Bob wrote:
"Erik" wrote in message
...
In article , "Guv
Bob" wrote:

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Guv Bob wrote:
This has absolutely nothing to do with RCM, but you fellers
are the highly intelly gent, worldly types (not unlike my
self... hyuk hyuk) only smarter.

Anyway, I need to either figure out how to rebuild the air
flow sensor assy on an old Eclipse or shell out $400+ for a
rebuilt one or donate it for next to nothing off my taxes.

Anyone have any tips on rebuilding one of these or know
anyone who can do it? I got no responses from the car
groups, and thought maybe one of the electronics RCM gurus
here might point me in the right direction with this.

It goes on a 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse (same as Eagle Talon,
Plymouth Laser). This one's DOHC non-turbo.

Here's the sensor:
http://tinyurl.com/MassAirFlowSensor-90-Eclipse

New part is $650, used is $450. None at the local junk yards
around here.

Thanks in advance.

Bob

Not easy to rebuild them without having access to the parts
that fail. As Winston said you can get a reman MUCH cheaper or
if you could live without it for a week or so there are a
couple outfits that do rebuilds on your part and ship it back.

What is the problem you're seeing that tells you the current
unit is bad?

-- Steve W.
Thanks fellers. I just started looking at it so not much info
yet. Don't know if it is hot wire type or not. Symptom is from
my long-time mechanic -- says it could be MAF or could be
computer - can't tell which. When hot or cold, car runs way too
rich and will stall out if throttle is released.


First, I'm not familiar with the 90 Eclipse... and this is just my
0.02¢ hunch with the limited info available in this thread.

Having said that... did your mechanic pull a computer code
referring to MAF issues or have any other evidence of it's failure?
(The car may be too old to produce Diagnostic Trouble Codes
(DTC's)... I just don't know off the top of my head. Do you have
the factory shop manual???

Running rich like that could just be a bad coolant temperature
sensor or it's associated circuitry. Often times when they fail, or
if their circuit becomes 'open', they erroneously report
temperatures of like -40°F[1] to the computer; which in turn will
run the engine very rich... just like it's supposed to do. Terminal
corrosion is one common cause of open circuits.

Coolant temp sensors are chump change in comparison to MAF's.

IMHO I think you really should do a little more
investigating/troubleshooting first.

Good luck! Let us know how it comes out.

Erik

[1] Just out of passing interest, note that -40°F equals -40°C!
Check it out!

Thanks, Erik. No error codes on the connector.

Something else -- the car ran fine a couple of months ago and passed
the annual smog test with no tune up or adjustments. Then it sat for
about 2 months without being started. Recharged the battery and
that's when the rough idle started. Reset the computer and no
change.




I would check REALLY close for mouse damage to the wiring, and
rust/corrosion on the connections.
Just setting still shouldn't damage the MAF unless a mouse was using it
for a home.
I would also run a good injector cleaner through it. Setting that long
can make gas into really bad crap. Could be that some of that is holding
injectors open enough to cause the problem as well.

--
Steve W.