In article ,
"Guv Bob" wrote:

"Steve W." wrote in message
...
Guv Bob wrote:
This has absolutely nothing to do with RCM, but you fellers are the
highly intelly gent, worldly types (not unlike my self... hyuk hyuk)
only smarter.

Anyway, I need to either figure out how to rebuild the air flow
sensor assy on an old Eclipse or shell out $400+ for a rebuilt one or
donate it for next to nothing off my taxes.

Anyone have any tips on rebuilding one of these or know anyone who
can do it? I got no responses from the car groups, and thought
maybe one of the electronics RCM gurus here might point me in the
right direction with this.

It goes on a 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse (same as Eagle Talon, Plymouth
Laser). This one's DOHC non-turbo.

Here's the sensor: http://tinyurl.com/MassAirFlowSensor-90-Eclipse

New part is $650, used is $450. None at the local junk yards around
here.

Thanks in advance.

Bob


Not easy to rebuild them without having access to the parts that fail.
As Winston said you can get a reman MUCH cheaper or if you could live
without it for a week or so there are a couple outfits that do rebuilds
on your part and ship it back.

What is the problem you're seeing that tells you the current unit is bad?

--
Steve W.

Thanks fellers. I just started looking at it so not much info yet. Don't
know if it is hot wire type or not. Symptom is from my long-time mechanic --
says it could be MAF or could be computer - can't tell which. When hot or
cold, car runs way too rich and will stall out if throttle is released.



First, I'm not familiar with the 90 Eclipse... and this is just my 0.02¢
hunch with the limited info available in this thread.

Having said that... did your mechanic pull a computer code referring to
MAF issues or have any other evidence of it's failure? (The car may be
too old to produce Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's)... I just don't know
off the top of my head. Do you have the factory shop manual???

Running rich like that could just be a bad coolant temperature sensor or
it's associated circuitry. Often times when they fail, or if their
circuit becomes 'open', they erroneously report temperatures of like
-40°F[1] to the computer; which in turn will run the engine very rich...
just like it's supposed to do. Terminal corrosion is one common cause of
open circuits.

Coolant temp sensors are chump change in comparison to MAF's.

IMHO I think you really should do a little more
investigating/troubleshooting first.

Good luck! Let us know how it comes out.

Erik

[1] Just out of passing interest, note that -40°F equals -40°C! Check it
out!