"Baron" wrote in message
...
Arfa Daily Inscribed thus:



Arfa


Oooops ! Ignore this (except for amusement at my misfortune ... )
Accidentally posted to wrong group :-\

Arfa

Apart from a wry smile :-)
I would be interested in the cause and solution !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Then you shall have it sir ! Assuming of course, that I ever get to
the bottom of it. Problem is that now I've had to patch the pipe back
up, it becomes more and more difficult to put it back in, just to try
it out. I really need to figure a way to pressurise it assembled with
15 mm tails, but out of the installation. If I can then get it
watertight, at least I know that when I put it back in, it will only
be a case of a 'straight' connection 15 mm to 15 mm, be it in solder
or compression.

Arfa

Long shot, but since I've had it happen to me...
Its possible that the casting has one or more blow holes in it allowing
water to leak through the casting from the inside.

Some time long ago I replaced a sink mixer tap... It was fine until hot
water was run through it, then it started to leak. I at first I
thought that it was the compression joints at the base of the tap. In
fact it was water being forced under the chrome plating and out into
the cabinet underneath. The supplier refused to even acknowledge that
it was the tap that was leaking and blamed the leak on badly fitted
joints. Replacing the tap cured the problem.

Using a high pressure test pump showed that water was in fact escaping
between the chrome plating and the bottom of the tap where the machined
surface was.

The supplier never acknowledged the fault and refused point blank to
replace the faulty tap.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.


Interesting. The consensus at the moment from those good folk over on UK
DIY, is that I still didn't pull it up tight enough. They reckon that the
frictional resistance of 22 mm fittings can be so high that you can pull
them up until they squeak, but in fact you are fighting this friction in the
threads, and although you think that you must have gotten it tight enough to
have seated the olive, you actually haven't. They say that the solution is
to put sealing compound on both the olive, and the threads, and this will
act as a lubricant when pulling it up, resulting in the force going into
making the joint, rather than just tightening the nut. I have also had the
thought of using a 22 mm tap connector on it. That way you get the seal from
a rubber or fibre washer against the thread end, rather than having to get a
good 'squash' of the olive onto both the pipe, and the seat in the valve
body. What thinks you to this off the wall idea ?

Arfa