Leon, I stopped using surfaced wood as it was never flat, always
twisted. Where do you find this wonderful flat 2s wood?

I joint because it's a lot easier to have squared up wood from my
process, than picking through tons of lumber. I rarely see straight wood.
So when I get rough cut wood I just expect to true it up. I find
building with that wood easier. I don't have to deal with twists, which
for already surfaced wood means I need to knock it down in thickness, or
rip it and fix smaller strips and then glue them back.

Same amount of work and time? No. truer, and faster.



On 1/29/2012 6:35 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/29/2012 3:20 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 1/23/2012 6:08 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
Anyone out there making
furniture with no power jointer?

Yes, I had a jointer for years. I actually used it to take up space and
collect dust. I got rid of it a few years ago and have not missed it at
all.

Now if I were buying a lot of rough cut lumber I would want it back but
S2S lumber for me is just not expensive enough for me to want to go back
to using a jointer and buying rough cut. I do however straighten S2S
lumber with my track saw.

I like your technique of "jointing" the edges with a track or table saw.

But if you were to set a couple of your new S2S boards side-by-side, it
would not make for a flat surface, would it (just asking)?


Yes they would. S2S boards have the top and bottom surfaces planed flat.
There will be exceptions just like with some S4S which may no longer be
flat or straight. For the most part S2S will be consistent thickness but
will be thinker that the size that it is sold as. Most often 4/4 S2S is
13/16" thick at my supplier so I plane it to the desired thickness,
usually 3/4".

Keep in mind it is more difficult to straighten an edge on a TS unless
you use a sled, which I used to do. The rip fence is not long enough to
address keeping the stock going in a straight line for longer boards.
The track saw works much better in this case.