"nesesu" wrote in message
...

FWIW, I usually buy a threaded body PRV which geneally has a union nut
on one end to allow the PRV to be easily removed from the line for
serviceing. I can then use solder to thread adaptors to connect to the
piping if metal or PEX compression to thread adaptors for plastic
piping..
Take your PRV and put a valve on the output side pipe and a hose bib
fitting on the input pipe and connect it to a hose bib [or whatever
you call the tap you connect a garden hose to over there] and that
allows you to test it for leakage.
I agree, though, that I have seen far too many flare and compression
fittings that were so badly machined that they would never seal up. I
also had a gas valve in my house when I bought it [10 yeas old] that
the body was porous and the gas leaked right through. It was a very
cheezy valve made in Ch**a. To be on the safe side I replaced all the
fitings from the feed line to the controller valve to be sure of
fixing the leak, using best quality parts, naturally.

Neil S.

Hi Neil. Pretty much what I'm intending to do in terms of pressure testing.
There are all sorts of solutions I could employ. There are, for instance, 22
mm to 15 mm flexi tails available, that will screw straight onto a threaded
body such as this (like a tap (American faucet ??) connector. They make
their seal by use of a fibre or rubber washer that butts against the flat
edge of the threaded section. This means that the problem of compressing an
olive into the seat to the point where it seals, is eliminated. Of course,
it does rely on that flat face being reasonably machined, but that does
appear to be the case on this PRV, from what I can see.

Arfa