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John Grossbohlin[_2_] John Grossbohlin[_2_] is offline
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Default Was Dial indicator--now jointer


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/27/2012 10:34 AM, Bill wrote:
On 1/27/2012 10:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/26/2012 5:31 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:


I should have wrote I know ripping and crosscut *blades* are different.
And I know they have combination blades. Roland Johnson of FWW said, at
the WoodworkingShows, that one should never use those. : )

If that is what Roland Johnson said he is ignorant.


To be fair, what he said is that "one should only rip with ripping
blades, only crosscut with cross-cutting blades, and *avoid* the
combination blades--it doesn't take that long to change blades."


Yeah if you are relatively inexpensive blades and yo have time to kill
changing blades. I would have to change blades 8~10 time daily. THAT is
why I switched to a top quality combo/general purpose blade. It is highly
unlike you would notice an appreciable difference.


I use the Forrest WWII the vast majority of the time for just that reason...
However, when I've got a lot of ripping of solid 6/4-12/4 planed wood to do
I swap over to a Freud, coated, rip blade. It makes for much faster and
easier cuts on long rips. This as the tooth shape and large gullet size
allow it to take big bites and carry the dust away. I think the latter
makes the most difference as even with my 3 HP saw the WWII requires a
slower feed than the rip blade as it cannot handle the waste of thick stock.

I've noticed in more recent times that I find myself cutting things like 8/4
maple or cherry on the 18" bandsaw whether it's planed or rough cut. Rough
cut 4/4 or 5/4 is always ripped, and cross-cut if possible, on the bandsaw
when rough sizing boards.

I realize that not everyone has all these options though... I never ran out
of reasons for another tool purchase. ;~)

John