On 1/26/2012 5:31 PM, Bill wrote:
Bill wrote:
Father Haskell wrote:
On Jan 23, 7:08 pm, wrote:

I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer
or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected
#4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?

Systimatic ATBR 50 tooth blade does fine. For more critical
luthiery work, I'll touch up the joints with a #5 or an LN block.
Haven't seen a jointer yet that can produce as smooth or
as flat a surface.



Thanks for starting me on a saw blade/tooth lesson. I never did figure
out what ATBR stands for, but I learned it should produce good on
crosscut-miter cuts. Does this apply to ripping too? I know ripping and
crosscut saws are completely different.

I should have wrote I know ripping and crosscut *blades* are different.
And I know they have combination blades. Roland Johnson of FWW said, at
the WoodworkingShows, that one should never use those. : )

If that is what Roland Johnson said he is ignorant.

I used S0 tooth Systematic ATBR Combination blade for years with good
results. I have been using a general purpose 40 tooth Forrest WWII for
12 years with GREAT results. Both blades for Both ripping, cross
cutting, and compound miters.





My concern is academic, since I'm going to get my planes in shape, but
I'm still interested in learning what I can about blades.

You will not be disappointed in a General purpose Forrest WWII 40 tooth
blade.