Heath Roberts wrote:
No spacers or washers, just threads. And when it's not tensioned by
the hold-down bolts, the table rocks, which can't be good...

I'd say not. I'd be worried about cracking the top.

On first inspection I couldn't find a part number cast into the table.
I'll have to clean it up and check more carefully. I can post a link
to pictures then, too.

T'would be good. Follow up with the number and the link
when you have a minute.

Here's another question: this saw came with two motors, a new one and
an old one, which I was told doesn't work. Assuming it needs to be
rebuilt/rewound and if I can't find a local motor shop, is there
somewhere that specializes in repairing these old Delta motors?

Any "good" motor man can usually fix the old
repulsion/induction motors. I'd be leery of anyone who
tells you it's junk. As for recommendations, Quality
Electric here in Milwaukee is very good.

And if you ever decide to part with it, ping me?

And one mo what's the best way to add dust collection to the
old-style unisaws?

There is no best way. You could try coming out the front
with an MDF panel in place of the dust door and piping it
off from there. On the other hand, I don't have dust
collection on mine and it's never been too much of a bother.
I also run the shop vac pretty religiously at the end of the
day.

I am planning to install a Unifence and Uniguard,
which I know aren't original, but I'd like to preserve the look of the
saw as much as possible while making it functional, so I don't want to
make any more modifications than necessary, especially when it comes
to cutting holes.

I agree all the way. Get rid of the Jet Lock and but a good
aftermarket on it. Hole cutting is sacrilegious though.

UA100