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#1
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Old unisaw table different from new ones?
I bought an older (1956) unisaw, and was happy to note that the table
had T-slots--I didn't think an original table would have those. But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points on the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch of space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions. On the CS-4K part sheet, Delta shows the current table part number for the old saw as 422-04-091-5001, which they say does have T-slots, but the current part number for current model saw (CS-4K-10 part sheet) is 422-04-391-0003. I wonder if maybe I have a table which isn't really supposed to go with this saw. I've googled without finding an answer, and the folks at Delta were very nice but couldn't tell me any more than "they're different part numbers, so they must be different"--does anybody know if there have been changes to the table casting that would make a new table not correctly fit an older saw cabinet? Thanks, Heath |
#2
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Old unisaw table different from new ones?
I looked at the parts breakdown:
http://www.acetoolrepair.com/AceTool...eSaws/CS4K.htm and that's the correct part number for "that" saw.... Are you sure about the saw model ??? How do you know it's 1956 Unisaw ??? Does your saw look "exactly" like the above picture ??? Is there a part number on the top ??? Look for casting numbers. Go here for help: http://www.owwm.com/ You might have the right top and wrong saw or the other way around depending on how you look at it. Heath Roberts wrote: I bought an older (1956) unisaw, and was happy to note that the table had T-slots--I didn't think an original table would have those. But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points on the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch of space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions. On the CS-4K part sheet, Delta shows the current table part number for the old saw as 422-04-091-5001, which they say does have T-slots, but the current part number for current model saw (CS-4K-10 part sheet) is 422-04-391-0003. I wonder if maybe I have a table which isn't really supposed to go with this saw. I've googled without finding an answer, and the folks at Delta were very nice but couldn't tell me any more than "they're different part numbers, so they must be different"--does anybody know if there have been changes to the table casting that would make a new table not correctly fit an older saw cabinet? Thanks, Heath |
#3
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Old unisaw table different from new ones?
I wonder if maybe I have a table which isn't really supposed to go
with this saw. I'm mighty suspicious but the odds of a table from another saw, even one built by Delta, fitting your saw are the slimmest of slim. I've googled without finding an answer, and the folks at Delta were very nice but couldn't tell me any more than "they're different part numbers, so they must be different"-- God bless them. They are so butt stoopid I wonder sometimes who wipes for them. does anybody know if there have been changes to the table casting that would make a new table not correctly fit an older saw cabinet? 1) Pull the top off. 2) Check the part number cast into the underside and post that here (on the wreck). 3) Take a picture(s) of the underside of the top and send it to me. 4) We'll figure something out to tell the teacher. What ever you do, don't call Delta. UA100 |
#4
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Old unisaw table different from new ones?
Heath Roberts wrote:
But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points on the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch of space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions. If I may be allowed a follow up question? When you say, "sitting on the trunnions", are there washers between the table and the cabinet or do you see the threads on all four cap screws? UA100 |
#5
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Old unisaw table different from new ones?
I replaced the table top on my 1946 delta unisaw with a new one that
had the T slots. The new tops are made for both the contractor and unisaw. The contractor saw bolts the motor assembly to the bottom of the table. There are 4 bolt bosses near the blade opening for this. For the unisaw, the motor assembly is suspended at the four corners of the base. The trunion interferes with the four bolt bosses. To allow the table to rest on the four corners you must grind the four bolt bosses off with a hand grinder, pretty scary huh. I rented a grinder at the big orange place. A seven inch grinder takes about 5 minutes. I can get you some picture of how to do it from the guy I bought my table top from, maybe. You do not have to do anything to the saw only the top. I guess the new trunion is different than the old one. Jack Unisaw A100 wrote in message . .. Heath Roberts wrote: But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points on the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch of space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions. If I may be allowed a follow up question? When you say, "sitting on the trunnions", are there washers between the table and the cabinet or do you see the threads on all four cap screws? UA100 |
#6
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Old unisaw table different from new ones?
Pat Barber wrote in message ...
How do you know it's 1956 Unisaw ??? Vintage list on OWWM. Serial number is 94-xxxx, so it actually may be a 1951 model--not sure why I remembered 1956. Regards, Heath |
#7
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Old unisaw table different from new ones?
Unisaw A100 wrote in message . ..
Heath Roberts wrote: But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points on the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch of space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions. When you say, "sitting on the trunnions", are there washers between the table and the cabinet or do you see the threads on all four cap screws? UA100 No spacers or washers, just threads. And when it's not tensioned by the hold-down bolts, the table rocks, which can't be good... On first inspection I couldn't find a part number cast into the table. I'll have to clean it up and check more carefully. I can post a link to pictures then, too. Here's another question: this saw came with two motors, a new one and an old one, which I was told doesn't work. Assuming it needs to be rebuilt/rewound and if I can't find a local motor shop, is there somewhere that specializes in repairing these old Delta motors? And one mo what's the best way to add dust collection to the old-style unisaws? I am planning to install a Unifence and Uniguard, which I know aren't original, but I'd like to preserve the look of the saw as much as possible while making it functional, so I don't want to make any more modifications than necessary, especially when it comes to cutting holes. Thanks, Heath |
#8
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Old unisaw table different from new ones?
Heath Roberts wrote:
No spacers or washers, just threads. And when it's not tensioned by the hold-down bolts, the table rocks, which can't be good... I'd say not. I'd be worried about cracking the top. On first inspection I couldn't find a part number cast into the table. I'll have to clean it up and check more carefully. I can post a link to pictures then, too. T'would be good. Follow up with the number and the link when you have a minute. Here's another question: this saw came with two motors, a new one and an old one, which I was told doesn't work. Assuming it needs to be rebuilt/rewound and if I can't find a local motor shop, is there somewhere that specializes in repairing these old Delta motors? Any "good" motor man can usually fix the old repulsion/induction motors. I'd be leery of anyone who tells you it's junk. As for recommendations, Quality Electric here in Milwaukee is very good. And if you ever decide to part with it, ping me? And one mo what's the best way to add dust collection to the old-style unisaws? There is no best way. You could try coming out the front with an MDF panel in place of the dust door and piping it off from there. On the other hand, I don't have dust collection on mine and it's never been too much of a bother. I also run the shop vac pretty religiously at the end of the day. I am planning to install a Unifence and Uniguard, which I know aren't original, but I'd like to preserve the look of the saw as much as possible while making it functional, so I don't want to make any more modifications than necessary, especially when it comes to cutting holes. I agree all the way. Get rid of the Jet Lock and but a good aftermarket on it. Hole cutting is sacrilegious though. UA100 |
#9
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Old unisaw table different from new ones?
Unisaw A100 wrote in message . ..
1) Pull the top off. 2) Check the part number cast into the underside and post that here (on the wreck). The part number on the table is 422-03-091-2001 3) Take a picture(s) of the underside of the top and send it to me. A photo's on the way UA100 Thanks, Heath |
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