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Heath Roberts
 
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Default Old unisaw table different from new ones?

I bought an older (1956) unisaw, and was happy to note that the table
had T-slots--I didn't think an original table would have those.

But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points on
the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch of
space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions.

On the CS-4K part sheet, Delta shows the current table part number for
the old saw as 422-04-091-5001, which they say does have T-slots, but
the current part number for current model saw (CS-4K-10 part sheet) is
422-04-391-0003.

I wonder if maybe I have a table which isn't really supposed to go
with this saw. I've googled without finding an answer, and the folks
at Delta were very nice but couldn't tell me any more than "they're
different part numbers, so they must be different"--does anybody know
if there have been changes to the table casting that would make a new
table not correctly fit an older saw cabinet?

Thanks,
Heath
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Pat Barber
 
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Default Old unisaw table different from new ones?

I looked at the parts breakdown:

http://www.acetoolrepair.com/AceTool...eSaws/CS4K.htm

and that's the correct part number for "that" saw....

Are you sure about the saw model ???

How do you know it's 1956 Unisaw ???

Does your saw look "exactly" like the above picture ???


Is there a part number on the top ???
Look for casting numbers.

Go here for help: http://www.owwm.com/

You might have the right top and wrong saw or
the other way around depending on how you look at it.


Heath Roberts wrote:

I bought an older (1956) unisaw, and was happy to note that the table
had T-slots--I didn't think an original table would have those.

But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points on
the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch of
space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions.

On the CS-4K part sheet, Delta shows the current table part number for
the old saw as 422-04-091-5001, which they say does have T-slots, but
the current part number for current model saw (CS-4K-10 part sheet) is
422-04-391-0003.

I wonder if maybe I have a table which isn't really supposed to go
with this saw. I've googled without finding an answer, and the folks
at Delta were very nice but couldn't tell me any more than "they're
different part numbers, so they must be different"--does anybody know
if there have been changes to the table casting that would make a new
table not correctly fit an older saw cabinet?

Thanks,
Heath


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Unisaw A100
 
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Default Old unisaw table different from new ones?

I wonder if maybe I have a table which isn't really supposed to go
with this saw.


I'm mighty suspicious but the odds of a table from another
saw, even one built by Delta, fitting your saw are the
slimmest of slim.

I've googled without finding an answer, and the folks
at Delta were very nice but couldn't tell me any more than "they're
different part numbers, so they must be different"--


God bless them. They are so butt stoopid I wonder sometimes
who wipes for them.

does anybody know if there have been changes to the table
casting that would make a new table not correctly fit an older saw cabinet?


1) Pull the top off.

2) Check the part number cast into the underside and post
that here (on the wreck).

3) Take a picture(s) of the underside of the top and send
it to me.

4) We'll figure something out to tell the teacher.

What ever you do, don't call Delta.

UA100
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Unisaw A100
 
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Default Old unisaw table different from new ones?

Heath Roberts wrote:
But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points on
the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch of
space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions.


If I may be allowed a follow up question?

When you say, "sitting on the trunnions", are there washers
between the table and the cabinet or do you see the threads
on all four cap screws?

UA100
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jack
 
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Default Old unisaw table different from new ones?

I replaced the table top on my 1946 delta unisaw with a new one that
had the T slots. The new tops are made for both the contractor and
unisaw. The contractor saw bolts the motor assembly to the bottom of
the table. There are 4 bolt bosses near the blade opening for this.
For the unisaw, the motor assembly is suspended at the four corners of
the base. The trunion interferes with the four bolt bosses. To allow
the table to rest on the four corners you must grind the four bolt
bosses off with a hand grinder, pretty scary huh. I rented a grinder
at the big orange place. A seven inch grinder takes about 5 minutes. I
can get you some picture of how to do it from the guy I bought my
table top from, maybe. You do not have to do anything to the saw only
the top. I guess the new trunion is different than the old one.
Jack

Unisaw A100 wrote in message . ..
Heath Roberts wrote:
But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points on
the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch of
space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions.


If I may be allowed a follow up question?

When you say, "sitting on the trunnions", are there washers
between the table and the cabinet or do you see the threads
on all four cap screws?

UA100



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Heath Roberts
 
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Default Old unisaw table different from new ones?

Pat Barber wrote in message ...

How do you know it's 1956 Unisaw ???


Vintage list on OWWM. Serial number is 94-xxxx, so it actually may be
a 1951 model--not sure why I remembered 1956.

Regards,
Heath
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Heath Roberts
 
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Default Old unisaw table different from new ones?

Unisaw A100 wrote in message . ..
Heath Roberts wrote:


But I've noticed that the bosses at the threaded hold-down points

on
the table don't sit flat on the cabinet--there's about a half-inch

of
space at each bolt. It seems to be sitting on the trunions.


When you say, "sitting on the trunnions", are there washers
between the table and the cabinet or do you see the threads
on all four cap screws?

UA100


No spacers or washers, just threads. And when it's not tensioned by
the hold-down bolts, the table rocks, which can't be good...

On first inspection I couldn't find a part number cast into the table.
I'll have to clean it up and check more carefully. I can post a link
to pictures then, too.

Here's another question: this saw came with two motors, a new one and
an old one, which I was told doesn't work. Assuming it needs to be
rebuilt/rewound and if I can't find a local motor shop, is there
somewhere that specializes in repairing these old Delta motors?

And one mo what's the best way to add dust collection to the
old-style unisaws? I am planning to install a Unifence and Uniguard,
which I know aren't original, but I'd like to preserve the look of the
saw as much as possible while making it functional, so I don't want to
make any more modifications than necessary, especially when it comes
to cutting holes.

Thanks,
Heath
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Unisaw A100
 
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Default Old unisaw table different from new ones?

Heath Roberts wrote:
No spacers or washers, just threads. And when it's not tensioned by
the hold-down bolts, the table rocks, which can't be good...


I'd say not. I'd be worried about cracking the top.

On first inspection I couldn't find a part number cast into the table.
I'll have to clean it up and check more carefully. I can post a link
to pictures then, too.


T'would be good. Follow up with the number and the link
when you have a minute.

Here's another question: this saw came with two motors, a new one and
an old one, which I was told doesn't work. Assuming it needs to be
rebuilt/rewound and if I can't find a local motor shop, is there
somewhere that specializes in repairing these old Delta motors?


Any "good" motor man can usually fix the old
repulsion/induction motors. I'd be leery of anyone who
tells you it's junk. As for recommendations, Quality
Electric here in Milwaukee is very good.

And if you ever decide to part with it, ping me?

And one mo what's the best way to add dust collection to the
old-style unisaws?


There is no best way. You could try coming out the front
with an MDF panel in place of the dust door and piping it
off from there. On the other hand, I don't have dust
collection on mine and it's never been too much of a bother.
I also run the shop vac pretty religiously at the end of the
day.

I am planning to install a Unifence and Uniguard,
which I know aren't original, but I'd like to preserve the look of the
saw as much as possible while making it functional, so I don't want to
make any more modifications than necessary, especially when it comes
to cutting holes.


I agree all the way. Get rid of the Jet Lock and but a good
aftermarket on it. Hole cutting is sacrilegious though.

UA100
  #9   Report Post  
Heath Roberts
 
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Default Old unisaw table different from new ones?

Unisaw A100 wrote in message . ..

1) Pull the top off.

2) Check the part number cast into the underside and post
that here (on the wreck).


The part number on the table is 422-03-091-2001

3) Take a picture(s) of the underside of the top and send
it to me.


A photo's on the way

UA100


Thanks,
Heath
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