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Gunner Asch[_6_] Gunner Asch[_6_] is offline
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Default Visit to a scrap yard - Now Tin for lead casting

On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 01:35:37 -0500, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:

On 1/24/2012 2:22 PM, Paul K. Dickman wrote:
"Tom Gardner"mars@tacks wrote in message
...
On 1/15/2012 6:09 PM, Paul K. Dickman wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...
On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 13:20:16 -0500, Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:

On 1/15/2012 5:01 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:18:59 -0500, GeoLane at PTD dot NETGeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 23:45:30 -0500, Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:

On 1/13/2012 9:49 PM, Ignoramus16789 wrote:
On 2012-01-13, Tom Gardnermars@tacks wrote:


Next time you are there ask if they have any Tin scrap for sale.


If you seriously want to buy several tons or hundreds of lbs of
tin,
contact me. I know someone who scraps #1 tin ingots. I may work out
a
deal or something and make a couple of bucks.

i


I just want enough to raise the percentage of Tin in my lead
wheel-weight alloy to make it flow better. My scrap guy doesn't
ever
get Tin, it's hard to find around here. Need some wire brushes?


I could use some tin too, but not hundreds of pounds.
Iggy / Tom - put together a joint purchase?
How much do we have to buy to get the guy to sell?
Any other lead casters here?

RWL

Gunner raises his hand


One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

What's a good source of scrap Tin? How do you dissolve it into Lead?

Thats a very very good question. Scrap Tin is harder than hell to find.
It does melt into lead at about 800F or there abouts. You have to heat
it hot, melt it in, then drop the temperature back before the antimony
burns out.

Gunner

Why don't you just throw a piece of 50/50 solder in the pot?

Paul K. Dickman



Too expensive.


Jeez! You guys are so tight you squeak.

It's expensive if you're buying it at the Home Depot.

It's a thousand to one shot that any scrap yard you go to would have pure
tin.
But its even money that every one has a pail of half used solder bars lying
around.

Paul K. Dickman



The extra Tin isn't really necessary, it helps with fill-out in the
molds and adds a bit to hardness. That's why I cast, I AM cheap! I go
through about 600 lbs/year or more. If I didn't cast, my costs would
about $1,200/yr for parts. The wheel weights I use cost me brushes,
cookies, donuts, pizzas, electricity and time. My cast parts are better
than store-bought.



Ayup. A bit of tin really helps filling the moulds and giving good
sharp driving bands. But only a bit. No more than 2-3%

Btw..do you heat treat your bullets? Cast and dump from the mould right
into a 5 gallon bucket of water. Size within 48 hours and they will
increase Brinell nicely.

http://www.lasc.us/heattreat.htm

With pistol bullets, I rarely find much need to heat treat, unless being
fired from something like a Thompson Contender..which frankly is nothing
more than a short barreled rifle with most calibers besides "handgun"
flavors.

But with rifles...there is where heat treating comes into another world.
And for those with Marlin Microgroove barrels...heat treating allows one
to shoot cast bullets far above the 1600 fps "standard" for the
MicroGroove rifling and lead bullets.

Ive chrono'd 30-30 lead rounds at the same speeds as jacketed rounds
with no leading noted whatsoever. And the 44 Mag and 45-70 can be pushed
very fast in the Marlins when the bullets are heat treated.

Gunner



One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch