Thread: Fox tenon tips
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Bernard Randall
 
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Default Fox tenon tips

Larry,

Mea Culpa, I sometimes get confused by the trans-Atlantic terminology
differences as in this case.

Thanks for pointing out the error.

Bernard R

"Lawrence R Horgan" wrote in message
...
Bernard,
If I understand your post correctly, you're thinking of wedged
through-tenons. Bernie is attempting to make blind wedged-tenons. Still
though, I agree with you on the clamps. Even with a blind joint, you may
need the power of strong clamps to pull the joint completely closed.

Bernie, there is one thing I forgot to mention. Make sure your tenon is
shorter than the depth of the mortice by about an 1/16" or so. And

remember
to do the blind mock-up. Also, I think Joe may have a good idea... I never
thought of that. I think he means to say to build a joint using short

pieces
of lumber, the re-saw the joint in half so you can see the mechanics of

it.
I may even do this myself someday so I can get better at these joints.

One more thing, make sure you have everything ready and you've rehearsed
before the actual glue-up. I would probably use Titebond "Extend" just to
get a little extra time before the glue starts getting cranky.

Larry

--
Americans

"Bernard Randall" wrote in message
...
This technique was widely used on all heavy duty joinery in the past

when
glues were not as reliable and seasonal movement changes would

ultimately
result in glue failure. It is still widely used in custom cabinetry

which
has through tenons, often with a contrasting color. It also makes it
unnecessary for clamps during gluing, though I use one to pull the joint

up
tight while knocking in the wedge.

Bernard R

"Bernie Ross" wrote in message
...
Building a bed for my 6-month-old, who will soon have outgrown his

crib.

I'm thinking of trying to use "fox tenon" joints, whereby a couple of

slots
are cut in the tenon, small wedges are placed in the slots, and as the

tenon
is driven into the mortise, the tenon expands, giving a very tight fit
indeed.

As I understand it, if you make the wedges too long, the tenon

shoulders
won't reach the piece with the mortise, and you'll never get the thing

out.
You only get one chance to get it right.

I've never done anything like this before. Any tips? I'm intending

to
use
beech, if it makes any difference.

- Bernie