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js.b1 js.b1 is offline
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Default Oil filter change in old car - how often?

On Dec 6, 7:07*pm, thirty-six wrote:
It was a few years ago, but I did get a good semi-synthetic from
Vavolene. *It was certainly better than the later Comma semi-
synthetic. *Currently using Halfords synthetic (bought in advance when
on offer) but not overly impressed with its cold viscocity grading.
Seems rather heavy on warm-up.


Some engines do seem fussy.
Hydraulic lifters seem to have their "acoustic preference".

Oil pickup screen clogging has not gone away.
Recent diesel suffer high coke loading on the oil, that coke will
accumulate on the screen over time and if it does the end result is
usually first turbo failure (oil in intercooler) and then second main
bearing failure. There is little warning and buying used with such
costly parts needs due diligence (ie, lease where possible).


The Italian made basic filters P******* (I forgot) are supposedly


Purolator I suspect.
I think OEM is safest, unless known otherwise.


I must check for this. *Vehicle's over 10 years and has repaired front
nearside three years ago, so ripe for rusting, I know manufacturers
repair standards were not adhered to.


Sadly they rarely are; they tend to bond panels that should not be
bonded; skimp on spot weld count; aftermarket panels are routinely
used with dubious corrosion protection; critical drain holes may be
neglected or oversprayed with underseal; seals are re-used.

For a front nearside, if that includes anything behind wheel arch
trays examine carefully. If a car lacks them the outer wing skin rots
off in no time, if the car has them the inner upper "apron" tends to
vanish (it is non structural and just carries wiring harnesses, hoses,
but can track rust into the frame), if the car has them and they do
not seal properly the first you know is when a hole appears in the
engine compartment. Water can get behind the the trays, but not air -
so they never dry out.

Personally I think corrosion protection has gone to the dogs, which
combined with thinner/thicker steels means the thin steels get used in
the less structural areas but where corrosion is more likely. This is
a recipe for disaster and why many modern cars may actually be
unrepairable (unrestorable!) past a certain point compared to those
previous.