On 11/1/2011 9:10 PM, Winston wrote:
Ignoramus18836 wrote:
On 2011-11-02, wrote:

(...)

Likely needs a flush and fill of the entire system
and rebuilt wheel cylinders all around

OK.

The next problem is taking the wheels off, they are held by nuts that
are 1 3/8" or so wide.

I agree with Paul.
This sounds like an excellent excuse to get that 1" drive socket
set you always wanted.

Buy a box of nitrile gloves, not the dissolving latex kind.
Brake work is really dirty. The asbestos dust is hazardous so
wear a respirator. Nobody will be looking at you.

A can of penetrating oil may be useful to soak the wheel cylinder
bolt and plumbing.

Resist the urge to clean the brakes with your air nozzle.
You really don't want anybody breathing that stuff.

Provide yourself *a lot* of ventilation.

Have a few cans of 'brake cleaner', a couple clean parts
brushes and your camera on hand when it is time to disassemble.
After washing down the brake mechanism, take pictures at
various angles at every step of disassembly so that you will
be able to reassemble everything properly. There is no such
thing as too many pictures when repairing brakes, especially
drum brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMYAORTwAHo

Pay careful attention to the springs and sheet metal
parts you encounter.
The springs really like to 'let go' at exactly the wrong
time, propelling parts underneath heavy work benches, so
stage your tools so that you can get at them comfortably
without having to stretch too much.

If you discover a cracked hose, put the tools down and get
the part on order.

Check the brake fluid. Is it clean and clear or does it have a
green tinge?

Clean and clear.

Good news!

(...)

What fluid should I use? DOT brake fluid?

As dpb notes, get the correct info from Cat.
(I see that brake fluid is up to 'DOT 5.1'.)

--Winston
Or....call your local fork lift service guy and watch how he fixes the
brakes!

Paul