On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 02:00:01 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 25 Oct 2011 17:57:35 -0700 (PDT), Monkey Butler
wrote:

On Oct 25, 5:30 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 25 Oct 2011 12:49:06 -0700 (PDT), Monkey Butler





wrote:
On Oct 25, 2:16 pm, wrote:
Greetings All,
I have a 12 foot aluminum boat that is rated for a 10 HP max motor.
I do have a 10 hp outboard but bone on bone joints in both wrists
makes it really painful to put the motor on. For years I have been
thinking about various schemes to put in a liquid cooled 4 stroke
inboard. One idea is to use a conventional air cooled flat head motor
that's been modified with a water jacket. I told Harold Vordos about
this idea and he had done it and it worked well. I mean the liquid
cooling conversion. He even had done it with a motor that was very
close to a 7 hp motor that I have and was considering. I have also
thought about using a 125 to 250 cc motorcycle motor. But these are
expensive and rev higher. I have several reasons for wanting to do
this project. Mostly I want a quiet power plant and a liquid cooled
engine inside some sort of housing seems like it would fit the bill. I
want 4 stroke mainly because I'm tired of putting oil in the water. I
also want reverse and am not sure what is the best way, at least for
me. The plan is to use a prop shaft that pierces the bottom of the
boat and a rudder. So the motor would be inboard as would the
reversing gear. Money is tight so don't suggest a Crosley engine. If I
could even find one for sale. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Eric
Well if you have the skills to fab a water jacket then the only other
big hurdle would seem to be how to handle reverse. Instead of a gear
box why not a kitchen rudder?
Greetings MB,
Never mind, Google provided the answer. That's a cool idea. I like it.
Thanks,
Eric
Glad you like it. Let me know if you ever build it.
I will. Maybe not so easy to design. I've been thinking about the
curve of the parts and how to use the thing for steering and
reversing. Actually kind of complex linkages involved.
Eric

Eric, a small three blade CPP design isn't that hard to make up if you
have a mill or access to a shop.

Basically you have three blades, these get connected to the hub with a
rotating collar. The collar transmits the thrust to the hub. Inside the
hub you have what amounts to eccentric levers. These connect to the
collar and by simply pushing/pulling the rod you control the angle of
the blades.

The one I had used a 1 1/2" shaft diameter with a 1/2" rod inside it.
The shaft was turned with a simple twin sprocket on the outside. The
adjuster stuck out the front of the shaft with a lever attached.
Steve,
Got any pictures or drawings? I thought about something like that and
looked at buying a used one. Very pricey. But maybe really fun to
build. And I have the tools to make one. But making the blades would
be tough to program.
Eric