On Wed, 26 Oct 2011 02:14:39 +0000 (UTC),
wrote:
On Tue, 25 Oct 2011 17:57:35 -0700 (PDT), Monkey Butler
wrote:
On Oct 25, 5:30*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 25 Oct 2011 12:49:06 -0700 (PDT), Monkey Butler
wrote:
On Oct 25, 2:16*pm, wrote:
Greetings All,
I have a 12 foot aluminum boat that is rated for a 10 HP max motor.
I do have a 10 hp outboard but bone on bone joints in both wrists
makes it really painful to put the motor on. *For years I have been
thinking about various schemes to put in a liquid cooled 4 stroke
inboard. One idea is to use a conventional air cooled flat head motor
that's been modified with a water jacket. I told Harold Vordos about
this idea and he had done it and it worked well. I mean the liquid
cooling conversion. He even had done it with a motor that was very
close to a 7 hp motor that I have and was considering. I have also
thought about using a 125 to 250 cc motorcycle motor. But these are
expensive and rev higher. I have several reasons for wanting to do
this project. Mostly I want a quiet power plant and a liquid cooled
engine inside some sort of housing seems like it would fit the bill. I
want 4 stroke mainly because I'm tired of putting oil in the water. I
also want reverse and am not sure what is the best way, at least for
me. The plan is to use a prop shaft that pierces the bottom of the
boat and a rudder. So the motor would be inboard as would the
reversing gear. Money is tight so don't suggest a Crosley engine. If I
could even find one for sale. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Eric
Well if you have the skills to fab a water jacket then the only other
big hurdle would seem to be how to handle reverse. Instead of a gear
box why not a kitchen rudder?
Greetings MB,
Never mind, Google provided the answer. That's a cool idea. I like it.
Thanks,
Eric
Glad you like it. Let me know if you ever build it.
I will. Maybe not so easy to design. I've been thinking about the
curve of the parts and how to use the thing for steering and
reversing. Actually kind of complex linkages involved.
Eric
You can use any liquid cooled engine and build a keel cooler - just a
loop of water pipe mounted parallel with the bottom of the boat. an
inlet and outlet flange attached to the boat and a small header tank.
You will likely be able to use the engines normal water pump to
circulate the coolant. Reverse does present a problem but if you can
make a bracket to hold two gears with a vee belt pulley on each gear
that could be used to reverse a belt driven prop shaft.
Ot just use an air cooled engine and put a wire box over it to keep
body parts from coming into contact with hot engine parts.
Or maybe a "long tail motor". See
http://www.google.com/search?q=long+...w=1600&bih=734
for photos. Although a long tail doesn't have a true reverse you can
go backwards, a little slouch-wise but generally toward the back end.
One thing about a long tail you can use any engine you want, from an
old lawn mower engine to Oh-My-God-Thats-a-Big-One.
But truly, converting a 12 ft. outboard boat is going to be somewhat
of an exercise in frustration. The inboard and its engine mounts and
auxiliary parts is going to weigh more then the outboard did and
because the hull was designed to support the engine on the transom
moving the weight forward may well alter the way the boat sits in the
water.. Unless you build a water cooled exhaust you have the hot
exhaust to contend with.
Anothr thing to think about is whether you really, really, need a
reverse. I use a direct drive outboard on my dinghy and while I can
reverse by turning the engine around backwards I rarely do.. There is
no neutral either, pull the rope and go. A pretty primitive setup but
there are a lot of them around.
--
John B.