On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 13:51:19 -0700, Winston
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 08:14:50 -0700,
wrote:

(...)

Question: Why would it be so bad upside down when it isn't right-side
up? Could it be the addition of the table thickness? Pull the shoe
and mount the beast to the new, thin table. Let me know how it works.

Read on. I agree with you that relative movement between
the workpiece and saw blade appears to prompt lateral
oscillation of the blade and results in grabbing.

Vertical or lateral? You didn't specify, so I took it to mean
vertical separation between the table and workpiece. Wait a minute,
you just said "workpiece and blade". How is that happening? If it's
sliding up against the side of the blade, it will begin oscillation.
Gitfiddle wire'll fix 'er right up, overcoming that tendency.


With 'His Stockiness' holding the saw conventionally, there
does not appear to be enough relative movement to cause
much oscillation, so very little grabbing results.

How thick was the additional table when you tried it upside down?
I don't think you addressed that.


A foot alone couldn't provide the necessary force and still
allow the user to easily direct the cut.

(...)

Ayup. I've felt that with the recip saw many times. The 12" blades
are the worst.

And a Sawzall into a steel bolt clamped in a vise can
really teach you some dance moves, if you attempt to
use an unworn part of the blade.

Try cutting a sink out and find a subterranean tubafore lurking a
couple inches below the substrate. Instant pogo stick, all the way to
the top of the counter. sigh


(...)

Drill the tip of the blade, run a guitar wire through it, and support
it at the top. It should end your troubles. Use the beaded end on top
so you can drop a holey piece on it for further cutting.

It just might, with enough vertical pressure.

I doubt it would take more than a dozen pounds. Give 'er a try.


A first - order test would be to clamp a workpiece in a vise
and attempt to cut it with much less base force than usual.

"base force"? Or run a ball bearing holddown right next to the blade,
springloaded at the top.

That is the BladeRunner approach except for the spring loading.
It does appear to work OK. It ain't fast, even in wood, though.

No. Bandsaws are light years ahead for speed in wood/metal cutting.


(...)

That is my story and I'm sticking to it.

All the way to the San Josie Sanitarium, eh?

More highly paid men than you have tried that one, Larry!
They had to answer several Embarrassing Questions.

Oh! The Somesheimers Question, eh?


My take-away:
What if you made a 'virtual' top guide, immune to swarf?
Several displacement sensors and electromagnets dynamically
phase - cancel lateral acceleration of the blade,
straightening it in real time.

Quick, cheap, and easy. You'll have it done in half an hour, wot?
Hurry, the patent office closes at 4 on Fridays.

I Can Over - Complicate Anything!

Talk to Bill over on the Wreck. He's one up on ya.

--
In the depth of winter, I finally learned
that within me there lay an invincible summer.
-- Albert Camus