On Sep 28, 3:11*am, "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote:
wrote in message

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You could likely anneal it if it was out of the casting - but it will
likely cool too quickly in the casting.

It's worth a try! *Spot heat, using a tiny torch tip, then keep applying
heat intermittently, slowing the cooling. *If there's seals near that need
protecting, a wet rap wrapped around the shaft near the seal will do
wonders. * Likely not an issue, anyway, and there's countless numbers of
seals on the market, one of which may work perfectly well, or can be adapted
to work just as well. * In spite of the claims to the contrary, I have no
expectation that heating the screw won't anneal it enough to permit
drilling.

I also endorse the EDM idea, but that may not be a choice.

Someone mentioned the use of a left hand drill. *Great idea. * Heat first,
then try drilling. Fair chance the drill will bite and remove the screw.
Stranger things have happened. * If it works, it will happen so fast you
won't believe your eyes.

Heating in and of itself will produce results. *If you can heat the screw
hot enough to degrade the rust, most of the problems will have been solved.

Harold

I've solved a lot of stuck fastener problems just by using a propane
torch and a can of LPS 1. Heat, spray, heat, spray, repeat as
needed. Sometimes it takes more than just a few go-arounds to get
things loosened up. In this case, I'd be heating the hole area, not
the fastener. Doesn't have to be red heat, just enough to expand
things. Then there was the nazi superbolt in the VW shock mount,
drilled that one out until it shucked the flutes off the drill, then
spent three days with a mini-die grinder and a handful of pink
aluminum oxide points grinding it out to the hole threads and picked
the bits out with a dental pick. I've had the most success with left-
hand bits on wood screws. Rusted bolts usually will drill or will
break the drill bit, but don't move until they're cored out.

Stan