On 9/25/2011 7:53 AM, Wild_Bill wrote:
I wouldn't worry much about the seals.. there are lots of replacement
styles, or even a greased leather washer (riding on a polished shaft)
held by a sheetmetal retainer will work effectively at keeping dirt out.
This is assuming that the lube is gear lube, not a hydro transmission
(you said 1964 machine).
You may still need torch heat to pull the hub, since the hub may not
have been removed for decades.

The primary disadvantage is needing to use a handheld drill, which can
attribute a lot to rapid drill point failure.. using a steady position
and forceful feed pressure are going to be to your advantage. The drum
should be secured so it can't rotate.
If you can clamp a bar or other steady support nearby, it would likely
help keep the proper approach angle and position.

In awkward positions and using a handheld drill, it can be worthwhile to
take some time to fabricate a mechanism to apply more feed force and
steady positioning using a lever to increase the feed force while
offering a very steady feed direction.

In this situation, even a Cole drill wouldn't be a simple solution due
to the drum size and the angle of the screw, but maybe something as
simple as a section of chain and a lever pressing on the back of the
drill motor would be appropriate.

The masonry drill suggestion could be a good solution, and for as cheap
as they are, grinding them to suit your needs should make them even more
effective for your needs.
I'd suggest using a proper steel cutting lubricant, not just anything
that's handy and slow RPM.

With a steady and forceful feed mechanism, using a pin and high RPM (no
lubricant), friction may generate enough heat in the screw to soften it,
but this method would likely be more appropriate for a workpiece on a
drill press.

An air chisel used as a hammer, hitting on (a hex or mating) driver,
with the hub supported by a steady hard backup like a jack stand on a
cement floor (not a block of wood on soil) may be enough to work the
screw loose while saturated with penetrant of ATF or miracle product.
Hex wrench material and some hardened drivers are likely to shatter, so,
the use of some fuel hose or other protective shroud would/should
prevent shards of metal from shooting out and injuring the operator..
and uncommon sense should dictate the use of all the personal
protection/safety devices/apparel required for safe practices.
With a series of impacts the screw may dig into the key a bit more,
relieving the holding grip in the key slot, and a couple/few thousanths
inch of relief would be adequate to loosen the grip of ordinary square
keystock, so a stable puller could pull the hub/drum off.
Having the part removed from the axle will give you more options for
dealing with the screw if it hasn't loosened to the point of just
winding it out (or inward into the hole).

An annular cutter just larger than the screw diameter should effectively
cut away the softer iron without dealing with the hardened screw.
It looks as though you'd need to prepare a flat surface *like a
counterbore around the screw hole) for the cutter to start on, with a
die grinder (Dremel/Foredom etc).

I don't have a source handy, but these tiny holesaw-type cutters are
available for cutting thru spot welds (although not particularly deep
capacity) and other purposes.
Woodworkers use similar centerless cutters for cutting plugs and dowels,
so cutting cast iron with a quality cutting lubricant and slow speed may
accomplish the desired results.



If there is any way to get the correct bit in a hand operated impact
tool, it would allow a quick tighten and loosen movement on the set
screw. A tool like this:
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=151

I know you can get a 3/8 socket drive Allen bit which can be driven by
the tool.