On Sat, 24 Sep 2011 14:47:44 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
Here is what I'm working on.

http://s1123.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMG_2610.jpg

1964 garden tractor. The wheel hub must come off
before the brake
linkage can be removed before the transmission
can be removed, etc.

The hub is cast about 3/8 thick. The brake drum
is bolted to the back
of it so there is no place to hook a puller or
anything like a bearing
separater. The lug bolt holes are the only
pulling points (5 on
4.5"). Problem is the 5/16 set screw.

I've tried drilling them out with what I thought
were pretty good
bits. I'm barely knocking the rust off. They are
hard. I've used an
allen impact driver to no avail. (good part is
they don't strip out)
There is enough meat to redrill and tap to
larger size.

I can apply limited heat but don't want to be
looking for nonexistant
axle seals.

Once the set screw problem is solved, I can
(reluctantly) drill and
tap pulling holes closer to the 1" axle.

This photo looks dry but it has been flooded
with JB Blaster for two
months. An additional consideration is this is
one of only two
surviving. Suggestions?

My first choice would be heating with a TIG torch.
Concentrate on
the set screw and get it hot, red hot if you can.
There is enough
mass of iron there to save the seal if you stay on
the screw. After
it cools to about 300 to 400 deg apply 50/50 atf
and acetone. Make
no attempt to turn it till it completely cools
off! When the screw is
heated it will try to expand but it cannot and
when it cools it will
shrink to allow turning. HTH....
If you don't have TIG then try an oxy acet gas
welding torch,
single flame. Stay on the screw.... oh, I already
said that....
phil k.


I have a couple of O/A torches. Do you think heating the screw will
change the hardness enough to be able to drill it?

It is in at an angle so only one edge is contacting the key. If I can
drill it, I think that thin edge might bend or break off when pulling
the hub off.