On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 21:00:59 -0700, JR North
wrote:

A noid will tell you if the ECM is pulling the circuit low, but does
not tell you, if it doesn't flash, why. Also, noid's resistance and
current draw are valued to be compatable with CMOS output circuit
drivers. Regular test lights are not.
A good probe does CMOS also, and very useful for checking both H and L
circuits. Also, req for most CMOS and TTL level electronic automotive
circuits. Incandesent test lights *may* have very high current draw,
and damage output drivers. Why take a chance.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

A test light draws less than an injector - guaranteed - and the
driver is, in most cars today, a "peak and hold" driver that regulates
the current to the low resistance injector. And the Noid light WILL
flash if the injector circuit is firing. The drivers are generally not
"tri-state" so they are either on or off, so a logic probe won't tell
you anything a "noid light" can't. Unless you can explain it to me -
I've been working with EFI for years.
Yes - you CAN use a logic probe - but I don't understand what you
think it can tell me that the "noid" cannot. It definitely can't tell
me if the peak and hold is functioning. Pretty well need a scope for
that - and a storage scope would make the job a lot easier.

On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 23:31:41 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 19:22:46 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Throttle body switches are off line. The ECM thinks the throttle is
closed, so goes into decel fuel cut as the rpm passes the ck point.
Test this theory by checking an injector with a logic probe ( not a
test light).
JR
Dweller in the cellar

When checking the INJECTORS, a test light is OK - in fact the NORMAL
way of testing is to plug in a "noid light" You are working with 12
volts. Typical "logic probes" are for use at TTL levels of +/- 5 volts


On Thu, 22 Sep 2011 07:03:40 -0500, "Snag"
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
Ive just finished putting a low mileage 3.0 in my 2001 Ranger (225,000
miles). The current engine came out of a 2003, and has 75k miles on
it. After ****ing around for a week, unable to start it, a friend
changed
the spark plug wires around (seems most of the online diagrams are
WRONG) and it started right up. However..when adding throttle over
about 1500 rmp..it starts to lope...vroom...vroom...vroom...vroom

What the hell is it and how do I fix it?

I stuck on the original intake manifold after drilling and taping
holes (properly) to use the original intake. Im NOT getting a check
engine
light and my code reader is isnt showing any codes.

Anyone have any ideas?

Gunner

Fuel filter or dirty injectors ?
HOME PAGE:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
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