Who do you think you are kidding?

The first time you need to put another board on the rack you will use the
end of the brackets, only for a day or so, until...
Next thing you will wake to a huge crash in the middle of the night and all
your nice hardwood will have slid off onto the floor and smashing your mitre
saw as it fell to the floor.

The joints in these brackets are stamped out metal. Without an angle support
for triangulation strength these things are dangerous with weight on them.

I wouldn't use them for any weight bearing stuff. Use a wood do-it-yourself
method as suggested by a few.

Forget the wood to the floor at the wall surface. It doesn't perform any
function in the leverage formula. Your wall studs are strong enough with
some decent screws.


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"kansascats" wrote in message
...

Agree. Plan is to attach the brackets to a 2x4; sit the 2x4 on the
floor; and then screw the 2x4 to the wall stud every 12" or so. Maybe
a lag screw instead, but again, 5 shelves @100# max, with most of
that being transferred to the floor, does not leave a lot of force
perpendicular to the wall. I plan to do some "hanging around" as a
test. Keeping that load tight against the supporting 2x4 is an
important part of this. That's why I'm only using 14" brackets, and
likely only to use the first 8-10" of that. I want to be able to
place 3 2x4's on a rack, so that's 10.5", so really a 12" bracket
would be fine. I'll look into this. Also, if I'm going to give
myself 4' of clearance underneath, then either there will be only 4
brackets or the spacing between each will be more like 9.5".

On Sep 9, 7:49 pm, Zz Yzx wrote:
On Thu, 8 Sep 2011 16:14:15 -0700 (PDT), kansascats

wrote:
OK.. been toiling with this for years.
What am I missing?

I bet the weak link is the wall anchorage. Screws pulling out, screws
missing studs, that kinna' stuff.

Jes' sayin'....

-Zz