There are a variety of different wiring methods used for various reasons..
series, parallel, phase-reversed etc.

Many guitar makers use very cheap pots, and many pots made today don't have
the extending tab that was standard years ago, which would prevent the pot
(or rotary switch) from rotating when mounted (typically) to a metal panel..
the tab/stub type pots required a second small hole to be drilled near the
bushing hole.
Many times, the tabs were just bent to the side to eliminate the need for
the second hole.

Mounting pots to wood/plastics etc, could really benefit from having those
integral tabs, if the manufacturers would install them.

Some players aren't familiar with the cheesy way the pots are mounted, and
end up rotating them hard to the stops, forgetting where they were set or
whatever.
So, even if the mounting nuts are locked with threadlocker, it doesn't mean
that some players won't turn the knobs past the stops.

Some guitar builder/repairers (not manufacturers) use a signal cable with a
bare shield, and solder the shield on the cans of the pots which helps keep
the pots in the originally-installed orientation, although this practice
isn't a positive locating method (the center conductor in this type of
shielded signal cable is insulated with fabric, not vinyl, so the fabric is
essentially unaffected by the soldering heat).

There are locking washers for mounting pots and switches to softer materials
which have very aggressive teeth for biting into the enclosure material and
the case of the component.

I dunno where Nigel gets his Loctite products, but they don't go bad
prematurely.. I've had tubes of the red and blue that were more than a few
years old, just stored in toolboxes or on shelves.
An absence of air is what kicks the formula off, and the bottles are
specific permeable plastics to prevent kick-off.

BTW, there are some more recent Loctite products in tape form, and a stick
formula in a chapstic-like dispenser. Both variations work as well as the
liquid threadlockers, and also have long shelf lives.

FWIW, the inside walls of the pockets/cavities in electric guitars are often
coated with a conductive/shielding coating, so if signal/audio + terminals
or wiring are touching the coating, the output will be weak.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Output was low.
Instead of owner tightening the controls which were all loose and rotating
,
he started messing about with the pickup height posistioning and bridge
height.
EMGHz pickups , not these ones but I'm assuming they are ok as
proportionate
readings
http://www.emgpickups.com/content/wi...MGHZ-H1-H4.pdf
Bridge one 17.4K DC and 7.9H (1KHz) and fingerboard 7.2K & 4.0H
Looks as though the tone switch/pot turned so the 47nF body touched the
outlet socket forcing the bare lead of the cap against the grounded body
and
after that stayed touching. near enough, regardless of the where the
control
body rotated to next.
The switch connects the white and black seriesed tails to ground , rather
than left floating joined together in all those pdf graphics. What is the
function of that option ? I thought electromagnetic noise nulling was due
to
reverse windings in each pick up and then one pickup rotated 180 relative
to
the other.
Would guitarist people here find these string action heights above the
pole
pieces reasonable (i'm not a guitarist)
7 to 8 mm fingerboard
4 to 6mm bridge
no mention of representative heights in that pdf