"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 6/2/2011 3:45 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 6/1/2011 11:40 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 6/1/2011 10:47 PM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
I have been using a Kreg miter gauge for about 6-8 years now and
have
been berry happy with it. Until now.
Today I pulled the brass idexing pin out and adjusted for a 22.5
degree cut and replaced the indexing pin. Felt tight. With
difficulty
I pulled it out after the cut and returned it to the 90 degree
setting. Then I had to make that 22.5 degree cut again and the brass
indexing pin would not come out. Pliers and finally vice grips would
not do any thing but twist the pin. I finally had to use a drift to
bound the pin out from the bottom side and the pin is still way too
tight to put back down the hole.
Any recommendations on another brand?
Those that might suggest the Osbourne or the Delta version need
not do
so, been there done that.
Incra has been a consideration but I do often cut wide boards and I
don't want the gauge hanging off the table.
JessEm looks great but is out of production, apparently they could
not
maintain tolerances.
Sooooooooo
L:
After some recommendations here on TS accessories, I went
a bump up and got the Incra 1000SE. Waiting and looking, it
came to me locally for 120 + the government. The HD was
a contender. But the superior refinements of degree selection
on the SE, confirmed by comparing accounts of experiences,
prodded the decision.
I like it. My saw is left-tilt and it goes on the left side. No
operation has commanded positioning it on the right yet.
I'd guess it might take 5 minutes to switch it the first time,
and a lot less once you get the motions on autoprogram.
The adjustable, expansive Teflon washers to snug up the
miter bar in the slot had one out of position and three
that did need the indicated tuning. If you expand them
so the slot gets into the no-go zone, flip them up
and set the slit line back further before adjusting.
If you want to cut degrees into tenths, it will. You
can use the flip stop as a hold down on your board
for operations where you aren't using it
as a stop.
There was one slip in the directions. You need to loosen
the clamp knob before peforming continuous angle
adjustments in step 2 of "Changing Angle Settings".
Honestly, if you a guy that far and didn't do it, put
the traffic cone on the head...but they mentioned it
where appropriate elsewhere and should have there.
A ball hex key is supplied for various adjustments.
Were I to make a lot of them, I'd be replacing some
of the frequently involved hex screws with thumbscrews.
If the stop rods were graduated, that would have been
nice too. The unit works well without those improvements.
Will you be able to make finicky cuts measuring better
than you can measuring and making a trial cut? No.
There's a toothed engagement strip to fix the positioning
of the flip stop when it's moved. They give you a
lifetime replacment on said strip. But if you honestly
loosen the flip stop enough so it clears the strip
when you move it, you'll never have to use the
guarantee.
Would I buy it again? Hear the hearbeat. And I checked
a range of reviews with a unanimous report of the
same cardiac response.
Good luck.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
You mention the HD as a contender, which one is that?
If I need to do accurate miters, I use my Dubby sled, each degree of
adjustment requires about 1/4" of fence movement, basically it would
be difficult to miss a setting with that much movement needed to
change the angle 1 degree. The degree scale is at the opposite end of
the fence pivot point.
Basically I like the flip stops and am not that concerned about
multiple angle cuts since 99.9% of my cuts are at 90 degrees. I just
want to know that if it looks like the gauge is set on 90 it
absolutely is. The Kreg indexing pin assured me of that.
Thanks again for the review.
Leon:
The clock beat me up at 3 chimes after 12 yesterday,
so that must mean I rose at 15 o'clock???
If you can read my re-fried mind, my friend,
you must be
a cryptanalyst and a real good cook.
My comments were meant to apply to the
HD. In this parallel universe of you waking
people I got the designations mixed in the
no-funhouse mirror. To affirm, my misgiven
intent was to discuss the HD. The SE is the
one on which I passed. As far as I can determine--pulling
my eyelids open to make sure of what I write--the
only difference between the HD (mine) and the
SE (the contender) is the HD has a superior angle
protractor with vernier cursor adjustment. The
SE fits your requirements for less money.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...1000HD&x=0&y=0
Above is a page that will lead you to both units.
There are 9 reviews for the HD (mine as discussed)
and 74 for the SE. A survey will give you
the drift. They want 160 for the HD and 123
for the SE. As said, I paid 120 and tax for the
HD.
If you can play the waiting game, go to
www.camelcamelcamel.com and you can set a
price tracker for any Amazon item you want.
If the item has been queried in the camelx3 system,
you may get a decent time/price history for it.
Should you care to register there, you can set
price alerts for the stammering camel to let
you know when prices drop.
Right now, I'm going to drop into the
bedbedbed.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
Thank you! I get it now, HD as in 1000HD. LOL I'll check the reviews.
L:
I wouldn't worry about the Incra mitres flopping off
the side of your table unless you extend the fence
way out. With fence compacted, there won't be
a problem except on midget platforms.
The locking mechanism for degree settings consists
of a 2.5mm thick tooth swung into the protractor
plate and double locked by a thumbscrew on the toothed
plate and a handle/knob on the protractor. With
care in setting the tooth fully into the protractor
detent, I haven't had a problem.
Because of the weight of the mitre/fence assembly
compared to the stripped-down standard mitre,
the unit will want to nose dive if the center of mass
nears the far ledge of the table while crosscutting
a large board. Inexperienced users would want a
premonition of that.
That is my concern with all that real estate behind the fence.
L:
It isn't really a concern on the inboard table because
the terminal T bar and the expansive Teflon washers on the
slider bar keep the miter assembly from keeling
backward. As long as you are watching for imbalance
when the T bar on the slider clears the miter
slot on the outgoing end of the table, you'll be fine.
Measuring my saw table today, extending the
fence can outrig it off the table...but if you have a
long, broad piece of wood to cut, the complications
from it are kindred.
Bottom line, there's not much to fuss about that a
little advance notice and experience won't handle.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey