Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 23 Apr 2011 15:49:06 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:38Â pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 11:53:34 -0700, spamtrap1888 wrote:
On Apr 20, 11:03Â am, PeterD wrote:
On 4/20/2011 1:55 PM, Meat Plow wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56 am, "Colin
 wrote:
"klem  wrote in
message

news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than
TV : repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a
consequence things : are so slow I hate to turn anything away
these days.This is a six volt : positive ground radio out of an
early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes : light up but vibrator
will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and : connected the coil
terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not : conclusive but
at the very least it tells me that six volts is not : reaching
the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do :
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car,
is : restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd
really like : to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I
need a vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Pull the vibrator out of its case and look for welded contacts.
Lots of times they can be separated and dressed with a relay file
or fine emery nail file. Sometimes you can even bang on the
vibrator and loosen the contacts if they aren't stuck together
badly. I ran across this Youtube video some while back. It will
help you immensly

http://youtu.be/Fp6PkRTmb8U

yes, this can work. I've repaired a few over the years by
disassembling and using an auto points file on the contacts. They
are usually easy to take apart, too.

Guys, the OP says his vibrator buzzes when he applies 6 volts
directly to it. That argues that the vibrator is not the problem, but
that there's an open circuit between the power supply and the
vibrator.

I would suspect that either the socket contacts or the pins on the
vibrator are corroded.

That's right, missed it. The video I posted can be used to troubleshoot
it further, the circuits are all pretty basic.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

Thanks everyone for the response I
just came home from the hospital after having my hip replaced so I've
been away from my repairs and this group for a few days. Lucky my shop
is in my home so when I do feel like it I can try to get back to work. I
did get the Sams from a guy in another group and I also got the vibrator
to vibrate and the radio to work somewhat before I left. Possibly it was
the rapping on the can that started it up. I also had some buzzing in
the speaker and bridged an electrolytic across one of the terminals of
the three section cap in the radio which improved it. So I'll replace
that and possibly cut the vibrator open when I feel better. I remember
doing that MANY years ago. Wow this thing draws 6.50 amps at 6,0 volts!
I guess it HAS been a long time....Lenny
-
BTW thanks Meat Plow for the redirect to the video. It was a real good
review.

Make sure those suppressor caps on the vibrator are changed. Very
important not only for the life of the reed switches but also to suppress
EMI-RFI. Start with those and the power supply. Remember it's 6 volts so
it's going to appear to draw an unusual amount of current over a 12 volt
tube radio. Once you get the voltages up to snuff you may want to tweak
the receiver by disabling the 455khz osc (that thing should have a
superhet receiver) and insert a modulated tone signal of 455khz at the
(guessing here) G2 pin of the first tube in the line through an .01 cap.
Then a voltmeter at the output. Start with a minimum reading on the VM
then adjust the caps and IF cans for max. Need a plastic hex tool for the
cans they have two slugs, one for the in and one for the out. Just some
tips to spruce up that old goat.

I've worked on my fair share of them back when you still found them on
cars driven every day.


A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.