It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

On Apr 19, 7:25*pm, klem kedidelhopper
wrote:
It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Do you have six dollars and fifty cents? A NOS Sams Photofact can be
yours:

http://www.smcelectronics.com/samsauto.htm

MOPAR Models: 812/813/815/816/817 AM Car Radio. - $6.50

This is a six volt
positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz.

FWIW:

There were solid state vibrators available. Not sure where to look and/
or find one today.

Bob AZ

klem kedidelhopper wrote in message
...
It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny


I have renovated a vibrator, usual pitted contacts problem, robbing contacts
from
a power relay or switch and swaging them into the carrier.

"klem kedidelhopper" wrote in message
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
: repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
: are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
: positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
: light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
: connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
: conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
: reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
: you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
: restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
: to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

On Apr 20, 6:56*am, "Colin Horsley"
wrote:
"klem kedidelhopper" wrote in message

...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
: repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
: are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
: positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
: light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
: connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
: conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
: reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
: you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
: restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
: to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I need a
vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56Â*am, "Colin Horsley" wrote:
"klem kedidelhopper" wrote in message

news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV :
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
: are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six
volt : positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product.
Tubes : light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
: connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not :
conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not :
reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do :
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is :
restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
: to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I need a
vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Pull the vibrator out of its case and look for welded contacts. Lots of
times they can be separated and dressed with a relay file or fine emery
nail file. Sometimes you can even bang on the vibrator and loosen the
contacts if they aren't stuck together badly. I ran across this Youtube
video some while back. It will help you immensly

http://youtu.be/Fp6PkRTmb8U



--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

On 4/20/2011 1:55 PM, Meat Plow wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56 am, "Colin wrote:
"klem wrote in message

news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV :
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
: are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six
volt : positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product.
Tubes : light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
: connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not :
conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not :
reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do :
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is :
restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
: to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I need a
vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Pull the vibrator out of its case and look for welded contacts. Lots of
times they can be separated and dressed with a relay file or fine emery
nail file. Sometimes you can even bang on the vibrator and loosen the
contacts if they aren't stuck together badly. I ran across this Youtube
video some while back. It will help you immensly

http://youtu.be/Fp6PkRTmb8U




yes, this can work. I've repaired a few over the years by disassembling
and using an auto points file on the contacts. They are usually easy to
take apart, too.

--
I'm never going to grow up.

I think I know who might have solid state one (Antique Electronic
Supply) I built one for an old Blaupunkt 3 band radio laid out in
wavelength rather than frequency for a 73 vehicle. My replacement was
huge though. Threw it together with a few parts from. Radio Shack.

On Apr 20, 11:03*am, PeterD wrote:
On 4/20/2011 1:55 PM, Meat Plow wrote:



On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56 am, "Colin *wrote:
"klem *wrote in message

news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV :
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
: are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six
volt : positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product.
Tubes : light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
: connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not :
conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not :
reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do :
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is :
restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
: to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I need a
vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Pull the vibrator out of its case and look for welded contacts. Lots of
times they can be separated and dressed with a relay file or fine emery
nail file. Sometimes you can even bang on the vibrator and loosen the
contacts if they aren't stuck together badly. I ran across this Youtube
video some while back. It will help you immensly

http://youtu.be/Fp6PkRTmb8U

yes, this can work. I've repaired a few over the years by disassembling
and using an auto points file on the contacts. They are usually easy to
take apart, too.

Guys, the OP says his vibrator buzzes when he applies 6 volts directly
to it. That argues that the vibrator is not the problem, but that
there's an open circuit between the power supply and the vibrator.

I would suspect that either the socket contacts or the pins on the
vibrator are corroded.

On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 19:25:51 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
wrote:

It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny
It looks like most of the other replys totally missed the fact that
the vibrator isn't vibrating in the radio, but does work with DC
applied directly.
I just did a quick check and two terminals of the vibrator are
usually connected directly across the DC input. That should make
troubleshooting fairly simple, even without a schematic.

Of course, if this is point to point wiring, it's probably a rats nest
of wires in there. But no lead free solder!!

PlainBill

On 4/20/2011 2:53 PM, spamtrap1888 wrote:


Guys, the OP says his vibrator buzzes when he applies 6 volts directly
to it. That argues that the vibrator is not the problem, but that
there's an open circuit between the power supply and the vibrator.

I would suspect that either the socket contacts or the pins on the
vibrator are corroded.

I did miss that... Likely it is good and there is a supply problem then

--
I'm never going to grow up.

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56*am, "Colin Horsley"
wrote:
"klem kedidelhopper" wrote in message

...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV
: repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence things
: are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This is a six volt
: positive ground radio out of an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes
: light up but vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and
: connected the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not
: conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts is not
: reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do
: you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car, is
: restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like
: to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I need a
vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Did you see Spam's first post:
Do you have six dollars and fifty cents? A NOS Sams Photofact can be
yours:

http://www.smcelectronics.com/samsauto.htm

MOPAR Models: 812/813/815/816/817 AM Car Radio. - $6.50

When are you going to be back on tv?

On 4/20/2011 1:14 PM mm spake thus:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
wrote:

[stuff]

When are you going to be back on tv?

Well, if that's really him, he doesn't know how to spell his own name.
It's Clem Kadiddlehopper, as anyone who ever saw Red Skelton could tell
you ...


--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:

yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by

- from Usenet (what's *that*?)

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 11:53:34 -0700, spamtrap1888 wrote:

On Apr 20, 11:03Â*am, PeterD wrote:
On 4/20/2011 1:55 PM, Meat Plow wrote:



On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56 am, "Colin
Â*wrote:
"klem Â*wrote in
message

news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV :
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence
things : are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This
is a six volt : positive ground radio out of an early 1950's
Chrysler product. Tubes : light up but vibrator will not buzz. I
pulled the vibrator and : connected the coil terminals up to six
volts and it does buzz. Not : conclusive but at the very least it
tells me that six volts is not : reaching the coil. Does anyone
have a schematic for this radio, or do : you know where I might
find one? The owner just bought the car, is : restoring it and
really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like : to have
this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I need
a vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Pull the vibrator out of its case and look for welded contacts. Lots
of times they can be separated and dressed with a relay file or fine
emery nail file. Sometimes you can even bang on the vibrator and
loosen the contacts if they aren't stuck together badly. I ran across
this Youtube video some while back. It will help you immensly

http://youtu.be/Fp6PkRTmb8U

yes, this can work. I've repaired a few over the years by disassembling
and using an auto points file on the contacts. They are usually easy to
take apart, too.

Guys, the OP says his vibrator buzzes when he applies 6 volts directly
to it. That argues that the vibrator is not the problem, but that
there's an open circuit between the power supply and the vibrator.

I would suspect that either the socket contacts or the pins on the
vibrator are corroded.

That's right, missed it. The video I posted can be used to troubleshoot
it further, the circuits are all pretty basic.




--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

On Apr 20, 6:38*pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 11:53:34 -0700, spamtrap1888 wrote:
On Apr 20, 11:03*am, PeterD wrote:
On 4/20/2011 1:55 PM, Meat Plow wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56 am, "Colin
*wrote:
"klem *wrote in
message

news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than TV :
repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a consequence
things : are so slow I hate to turn anything away these days.This
is a six volt : positive ground radio out of an early 1950's
Chrysler product. Tubes : light up but vibrator will not buzz. I
pulled the vibrator and : connected the coil terminals up to six
volts and it does buzz. Not : conclusive but at the very least it
tells me that six volts is not : reaching the coil. Does anyone
have a schematic for this radio, or do : you know where I might
find one? The owner just bought the car, is : restoring it and
really wants to keep it original, so he'd really like : to have
this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I need
a vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Pull the vibrator out of its case and look for welded contacts. Lots
of times they can be separated and dressed with a relay file or fine
emery nail file. Sometimes you can even bang on the vibrator and
loosen the contacts if they aren't stuck together badly. I ran across
this Youtube video some while back. It will help you immensly

http://youtu.be/Fp6PkRTmb8U

yes, this can work. I've repaired a few over the years by disassembling
and using an auto points file on the contacts. They are usually easy to
take apart, too.

Guys, the OP says his vibrator buzzes when he applies 6 volts directly
to it. That argues that the vibrator is not the problem, but that
there's an open circuit between the power supply and the vibrator.

I would suspect that either the socket contacts or the pins on the
vibrator are corroded.

That's right, missed it. The video I posted can be used to troubleshoot
it further, the circuits are all pretty basic.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

Thanks everyone for the response I
just came home from the hospital after having my hip replaced so I've
been away from my repairs and this group for a few days. Lucky my shop
is in my home so when I do feel like it I can try to get back to work.
I did get the Sams from a guy in another group and I also got the
vibrator to vibrate and the radio to work somewhat
before I left. Possibly it was the rapping on the can that started it
up. I also had some buzzing in the speaker and bridged an electrolytic
across one of the terminals of the three section cap in the radio
which improved it. So I'll replace that and possibly cut the vibrator
open when I feel better. I remember doing that MANY years ago. Wow
this thing draws 6.50 amps at 6,0 volts! I guess it HAS been a long
time....Lenny
-
BTW thanks Meat Plow for the redirect to the video. It was a real good
review.

On Sat, 23 Apr 2011 15:49:06 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:38Â*pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 11:53:34 -0700, spamtrap1888 wrote:
On Apr 20, 11:03Â*am, PeterD wrote:
On 4/20/2011 1:55 PM, Meat Plow wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56 am, "Colin
Â*wrote:
"klem Â*wrote in
message

news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than
TV : repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a
consequence things : are so slow I hate to turn anything away
these days.This is a six volt : positive ground radio out of an
early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes : light up but vibrator
will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and : connected the coil
terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not : conclusive but
at the very least it tells me that six volts is not : reaching
the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do :
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car,
is : restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd
really like : to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I
need a vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Pull the vibrator out of its case and look for welded contacts.
Lots of times they can be separated and dressed with a relay file
or fine emery nail file. Sometimes you can even bang on the
vibrator and loosen the contacts if they aren't stuck together
badly. I ran across this Youtube video some while back. It will
help you immensly

http://youtu.be/Fp6PkRTmb8U

yes, this can work. I've repaired a few over the years by
disassembling and using an auto points file on the contacts. They
are usually easy to take apart, too.

Guys, the OP says his vibrator buzzes when he applies 6 volts
directly to it. That argues that the vibrator is not the problem, but
that there's an open circuit between the power supply and the
vibrator.

I would suspect that either the socket contacts or the pins on the
vibrator are corroded.

That's right, missed it. The video I posted can be used to troubleshoot
it further, the circuits are all pretty basic.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

Thanks everyone for the response I
just came home from the hospital after having my hip replaced so I've
been away from my repairs and this group for a few days. Lucky my shop
is in my home so when I do feel like it I can try to get back to work. I
did get the Sams from a guy in another group and I also got the vibrator
to vibrate and the radio to work somewhat before I left. Possibly it was
the rapping on the can that started it up. I also had some buzzing in
the speaker and bridged an electrolytic across one of the terminals of
the three section cap in the radio which improved it. So I'll replace
that and possibly cut the vibrator open when I feel better. I remember
doing that MANY years ago. Wow this thing draws 6.50 amps at 6,0 volts!
I guess it HAS been a long time....Lenny
-
BTW thanks Meat Plow for the redirect to the video. It was a real good
review.

Make sure those suppressor caps on the vibrator are changed. Very
important not only for the life of the reed switches but also to suppress
EMI-RFI. Start with those and the power supply. Remember it's 6 volts so
it's going to appear to draw an unusual amount of current over a 12 volt
tube radio. Once you get the voltages up to snuff you may want to tweak
the receiver by disabling the 455khz osc (that thing should have a
superhet receiver) and insert a modulated tone signal of 455khz at the
(guessing here) G2 pin of the first tube in the line through an .01 cap.
Then a voltmeter at the output. Start with a minimum reading on the VM
then adjust the caps and IF cans for max. Need a plastic hex tool for the
cans they have two slugs, one for the in and one for the out. Just some
tips to spruce up that old goat.

I've worked on my fair share of them back when you still found them on
cars driven every day.

Hope the hip job went well. I've seen one of those done and in this
video, they split you open like a pig for a roast. Hope I don't go
through that although I had a month of therapy on my right hip last June.
Found out a have lost about 50% of the range of motion for both. Doing
some stretching exercises now trying to get some of that back.




--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 23 Apr 2011 15:49:06 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:38Â pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 11:53:34 -0700, spamtrap1888 wrote:
On Apr 20, 11:03Â am, PeterD wrote:
On 4/20/2011 1:55 PM, Meat Plow wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56 am, "Colin
 wrote:
"klem  wrote in
message

news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other than
TV : repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a
consequence things : are so slow I hate to turn anything away
these days.This is a six volt : positive ground radio out of an
early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes : light up but vibrator
will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and : connected the coil
terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not : conclusive but
at the very least it tells me that six volts is not : reaching
the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for this radio, or do :
you know where I might find one? The owner just bought the car,
is : restoring it and really wants to keep it original, so he'd
really like : to have this radio working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I
need a vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Pull the vibrator out of its case and look for welded contacts.
Lots of times they can be separated and dressed with a relay file
or fine emery nail file. Sometimes you can even bang on the
vibrator and loosen the contacts if they aren't stuck together
badly. I ran across this Youtube video some while back. It will
help you immensly

http://youtu.be/Fp6PkRTmb8U

yes, this can work. I've repaired a few over the years by
disassembling and using an auto points file on the contacts. They
are usually easy to take apart, too.

Guys, the OP says his vibrator buzzes when he applies 6 volts
directly to it. That argues that the vibrator is not the problem, but
that there's an open circuit between the power supply and the
vibrator.

I would suspect that either the socket contacts or the pins on the
vibrator are corroded.

That's right, missed it. The video I posted can be used to troubleshoot
it further, the circuits are all pretty basic.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

Thanks everyone for the response I
just came home from the hospital after having my hip replaced so I've
been away from my repairs and this group for a few days. Lucky my shop
is in my home so when I do feel like it I can try to get back to work. I
did get the Sams from a guy in another group and I also got the vibrator
to vibrate and the radio to work somewhat before I left. Possibly it was
the rapping on the can that started it up. I also had some buzzing in
the speaker and bridged an electrolytic across one of the terminals of
the three section cap in the radio which improved it. So I'll replace
that and possibly cut the vibrator open when I feel better. I remember
doing that MANY years ago. Wow this thing draws 6.50 amps at 6,0 volts!
I guess it HAS been a long time....Lenny
-
BTW thanks Meat Plow for the redirect to the video. It was a real good
review.

Make sure those suppressor caps on the vibrator are changed. Very
important not only for the life of the reed switches but also to suppress
EMI-RFI. Start with those and the power supply. Remember it's 6 volts so
it's going to appear to draw an unusual amount of current over a 12 volt
tube radio. Once you get the voltages up to snuff you may want to tweak
the receiver by disabling the 455khz osc (that thing should have a
superhet receiver) and insert a modulated tone signal of 455khz at the
(guessing here) G2 pin of the first tube in the line through an .01 cap.
Then a voltmeter at the output. Start with a minimum reading on the VM
then adjust the caps and IF cans for max. Need a plastic hex tool for the
cans they have two slugs, one for the in and one for the out. Just some
tips to spruce up that old goat.

I've worked on my fair share of them back when you still found them on
cars driven every day.


A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

On Apr 23, 3:49*pm, klem kedidelhopper
wrote:

I did get the Sams from a guy in another group and I also got the
vibrator to vibrate and the radio to work somewhat
before I left. Possibly it was the rapping on the can that started it
up. I also had some buzzing in the speaker and bridged an electrolytic
across one of the terminals of the three section cap in the radio
which improved it. So I'll replace that and possibly cut the vibrator
open when I feel better. I remember doing that MANY years ago.

My buddy who restores prewar radios replaces all the caps as a matter
of course. I wonder if that's a good idea for 50s radios as well.

Wow
this thing draws 6.50 amps at 6,0 volts! I guess it HAS been a long
time....Lenny

This clarifies a mystery for me. My mother once let slip she ran down
the car battery by listening to the radio when my parents were parking
during their courtship.

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 23 Apr 2011 15:49:06 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:38Â pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 11:53:34 -0700, spamtrap1888 wrote:
On Apr 20, 11:03Â am, PeterD wrote:
On 4/20/2011 1:55 PM, Meat Plow wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 05:29:17 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 20, 6:56 am, "Colin
 wrote:
"klem  wrote in
message

news:a5b8ddea-d0b2-40c4-b137-
...
: It seems like everything coming in here lately is other
than TV : repairs. But TV's are getting so cheap now and as a
consequence things : are so slow I hate to turn anything away
these days.This is a six volt : positive ground radio out of
an early 1950's Chrysler product. Tubes : light up but
vibrator will not buzz. I pulled the vibrator and : connected
the coil terminals up to six volts and it does buzz. Not :
conclusive but at the very least it tells me that six volts
is not : reaching the coil. Does anyone have a schematic for
this radio, or do : you know where I might find one? The
owner just bought the car, is : restoring it and really wants
to keep it original, so he'd really like : to have this radio
working. Thanks, Lenny

Look here for your vibrator:-

http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/vibrators.htm

Colin in AUS

Thanks for all the info guys.I don't know for certain yet if I
need a vibrator but I do need to order a schematic. Lenny

Pull the vibrator out of its case and look for welded contacts.
Lots of times they can be separated and dressed with a relay
file or fine emery nail file. Sometimes you can even bang on
the vibrator and loosen the contacts if they aren't stuck
together badly. I ran across this Youtube video some while
back. It will help you immensly

http://youtu.be/Fp6PkRTmb8U

yes, this can work. I've repaired a few over the years by
disassembling and using an auto points file on the contacts. They
are usually easy to take apart, too.

Guys, the OP says his vibrator buzzes when he applies 6 volts
directly to it. That argues that the vibrator is not the problem,
but that there's an open circuit between the power supply and the
vibrator.

I would suspect that either the socket contacts or the pins on the
vibrator are corroded.

That's right, missed it. The video I posted can be used to
troubleshoot it further, the circuits are all pretty basic.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

Thanks everyone for the response I
just came home from the hospital after having my hip replaced so I've
been away from my repairs and this group for a few days. Lucky my
shop is in my home so when I do feel like it I can try to get back to
work. I did get the Sams from a guy in another group and I also got
the vibrator to vibrate and the radio to work somewhat before I left.
Possibly it was the rapping on the can that started it up. I also had
some buzzing in the speaker and bridged an electrolytic across one of
the terminals of the three section cap in the radio which improved
it. So I'll replace that and possibly cut the vibrator open when I
feel better. I remember doing that MANY years ago. Wow this thing
draws 6.50 amps at 6,0 volts! I guess it HAS been a long
time....Lenny -
BTW thanks Meat Plow for the redirect to the video. It was a real
good review.

Make sure those suppressor caps on the vibrator are changed. Very
important not only for the life of the reed switches but also to
suppress EMI-RFI. Start with those and the power supply. Remember it's
6 volts so it's going to appear to draw an unusual amount of current
over a 12 volt tube radio. Once you get the voltages up to snuff you
may want to tweak the receiver by disabling the 455khz osc (that thing
should have a superhet receiver) and insert a modulated tone signal of
455khz at the (guessing here) G2 pin of the first tube in the line
through an .01 cap. Then a voltmeter at the output. Start with a
minimum reading on the VM then adjust the caps and IF cans for max.
Need a plastic hex tool for the cans they have two slugs, one for the
in and one for the out. Just some tips to spruce up that old goat.

I've worked on my fair share of them back when you still found them on
cars driven every day.


A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in the
70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.




--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in the
70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.


Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes. Some
took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR series
manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz IFs,
which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in the
70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.


Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes. Some
took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR series
manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz IFs,
which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature. Tweaking
the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage from start to
finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the vehicle. I'm
sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the attic. Used to
have one on my bench for music.



--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in the
70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.


Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes. Some
took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR series
manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz IFs,
which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature. Tweaking
the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage from start to
finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the vehicle. I'm
sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the attic. Used to
have one on my bench for music.


I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

On Apr 25, 9:12*pm, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

* *A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
* *problems
at 910 KHz. *262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in the
70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.

* *Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. *I could repair most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes. *Some
took less than 5 minutes. *I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR series
manuals. *The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz IFs,
which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature. Tweaking
the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage from start to
finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the vehicle. I'm
sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the attic. Used to
have one on my bench for music.

* *I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

I think I've run into "flaming" stupid before. That would melt teflon.
Many years ago a guy handed me a short wave radio to repair adding, "I
noticed that all the screws in those "can things" and holes were loose
so I tightened them all for you". After we discussed what a full
alignment, in addition to whatever repair he was bringing it in for in
the first place would cost, he left with his radio and his tail
between his legs.....Lenny

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:12:48 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in
the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.


Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair
most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
Some took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR
series manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz
IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the
vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the
attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.


I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

Doesn't that **** you off.



--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 12:13:25 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 25, 9:12Â*pm, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Â* Â*A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent
Â* Â*image problems
at 910 KHz. Â*262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back
in the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD
later on.

Â* Â*Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. Â*I could repair
Â* Â*most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
Â*Some took less than 5 minutes. Â*I still hve most of the H.W. Sams
AR series manuals. Â*The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or
455 KHz IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly
bad tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in
the vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in
the attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.

Â* Â*I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid„¢ on it, because
it's Teflon coated.

I think I've run into "flaming" stupid before. That would melt teflon.
Many years ago a guy handed me a short wave radio to repair adding, "I
noticed that all the screws in those "can things" and holes were loose
so I tightened them all for you". After we discussed what a full
alignment, in addition to whatever repair he was bringing it in for in
the first place would cost, he left with his radio and his tail between
his legs.....Lenny

I've run into 'tweakers' before busting the slugs in the cans not knowing
their ass from a hole in the ground about what they were doing. I fixed
up a couple, removing the busted slugs, chipping them out in pieces that
took hours. And cost them dearly. Those were for classic autos that the
owner wanted to keep original, and where the cost of replacing busted
slugs and alignment was cheaper than finding a replacement.




--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

klem kedidelhopper wrote:

On Apr 25, 9:12 pm, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in the
70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.

Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes. Some
took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR series
manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz IFs,
which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature. Tweaking
the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage from start to
finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the vehicle. I'm
sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the attic. Used to
have one on my bench for music.

I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

I think I've run into "flaming" stupid before. That would melt teflon.
Many years ago a guy handed me a short wave radio to repair adding, "I
noticed that all the screws in those "can things" and holes were loose
so I tightened them all for you". After we discussed what a full
alignment, in addition to whatever repair he was bringing it in for in
the first place would cost, he left with his radio and his tail
between his legs.....Lenny

I've had them walk in the shop with the coil from an IF transformer
where they used an old Allen wrench. It cracked the cores, but they
kept turning till they ripped the leads of the coil form. The funniest
was some idiot who called to see what we charge to fix a car radio, and
told us he wouldn't pay our service rate. The next day he walked into
the shop with the electrolytic from a mid '60s Delco solid state AM
radio that he had literally ripped out of the radio with a pair of
channel lock pliers, with part of the PC board still attached. He told
us that he wanted to buy a 'vibrator'. "My daddy used to fix the radio
in his 55 chevy all the time, and he told me that it's always a bad
vibrator!" He didn't believe that his radio didn't have a vibrator, or
that the radio wasn't worth fixing. He must have taken it to every shop
in town after that, because we got calls from just about every other
shop in the area, telling us about the idiot with the damaged
electrolytic.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

Meat Plow wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:12:48 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in
the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.


Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair
most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
Some took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR
series manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz
IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the
vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the
attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.


I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

Doesn't that **** you off.


I had a choice of bringing my tools, parts and manuals, or the
radios. I made a lot more money from using the tools. I hauled a little
over 17,000 pounds of tools, parts and manuals 1,000 miles, in two
trips.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 22:36:18 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:12:48 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back
in the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD
later on.


Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair
most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
Some took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams
AR series manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or
455 KHz IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly
bad tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in
the vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in
the attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.


I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

Doesn't that **** you off.


I had a choice of bringing my tools, parts and manuals, or the
radios. I made a lot more money from using the tools. I hauled a little
over 17,000 pounds of tools, parts and manuals 1,000 miles, in two
trips.

Was a semi with a 60, lbs load limit too much money one way?



--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

I have, i think, an old vibrator tester that plugged into a tube
tester. It had two lamps sticking out of the side. The vibrator was
bad if they glowed equally or didn't glow at all.

Meat Plow wrote:

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 22:36:18 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:12:48 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
problems
at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back
in the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD
later on.


Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair
most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
Some took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams
AR series manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or
455 KHz IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly
bad tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in
the vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in
the attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.


I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

Doesn't that **** you off.


I had a choice of bringing my tools, parts and manuals, or the
radios. I made a lot more money from using the tools. I hauled a little
over 17,000 pounds of tools, parts and manuals 1,000 miles, in two
trips.

Was a semi with a 60, lbs load limit too much money one way?


I made two trips in a stepvan, for under $150. It took several weeks
on each end to load and unload the truck, so a semi would have been out
of the question.


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

On Apr 26, 3:55*pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:12:48 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

* *A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
* *problems
at 910 KHz. *262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in
the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on..

* *Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. *I could repair
* *most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
Some took less than 5 minutes. *I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR
series manuals. *The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz
IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the
vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the
attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.

* *I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

Doesn't that **** you off.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

It was a nice Halicrafters too

On May 1, 2:53*pm, klem kedidelhopper
wrote:


It was a nice Halicrafters too

Our TV set was made by Hallicrafters, back when Chicago was the world
hub of the consumer electronics industry. At the same time, we had a
Webcor phonograph and a Zenith radio. My father later bought a Webcor
wire recorder second-hand, followed by a Wollensak tape recorder. The
Jensen Speaker division of the Muter Company was within walking
distance of our house. Then my parents got an Admiral portable TV for
their bedroom. I briefly had a Sherwood stereo receiver, and, at the
height of the CB craze, a Cobra CB transceiver. Only Cobra survives as
a Chicago-based company today, although Hallicrafters continues to
exist as part of the defense contractor Northrop Grumman.

On Sun, 01 May 2011 15:14:18 -0700, spamtrap1888 wrote:

On May 1, 2:53Â*pm, klem kedidelhopper
wrote:


It was a nice Halicrafters too

Our TV set was made by Hallicrafters, back when Chicago was the world
hub of the consumer electronics industry. At the same time, we had a
Webcor phonograph and a Zenith radio. My father later bought a Webcor
wire recorder second-hand, followed by a Wollensak tape recorder. The
Jensen Speaker division of the Muter Company was within walking distance
of our house. Then my parents got an Admiral portable TV for their
bedroom. I briefly had a Sherwood stereo receiver, and, at the height of
the CB craze, a Cobra CB transceiver. Only Cobra survives as a
Chicago-based company today, although Hallicrafters continues to exist
as part of the defense contractor Northrop Grumman.


Ahh the good old days. My first SW transceiver was a Heath SB-101
purchased at a hamfest back in 1990 for $80 bucks with PSU. It was in
excellent cosmetic shape but needed a pair of 6146 output tubes and
a couple others. Back then replacements were pretty cheap I think I
ended up with around $40 more in it to get it back to working specs.

I've owned two or three Halicrafters receivers over the past 35 years.
And a couple really decent Radio Shack SW receivers.

Back in the late 50's my dad built a Heathkit CB. If I recall you plugged
the crystals right in the front. Had had someone put up a 40 foot tower
with a 5 element Mosley yagi beam. I guess I can credit that for my
start in electronics, watching dad put that thing together and talking
'skip' on it. There were a few locals that also has Cb radios back then.
I can even remember my dad's call sign.


--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

On May 3, 12:20Â*pm, klem kedidelhopper
wrote:
On Apr 26, 3:55Â*pm, Meat Plow wrote:



On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:12:48 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Â* Â*A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
Â* Â*problems
at 910 KHz. Â*262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.

Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in
the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.

Â* Â*Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. Â*I could repair
Â* Â*most
of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
Some took less than 5 minutes. Â*I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR
series manuals. Â*The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz
IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the
vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the
attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.

Â* Â*I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000.

Doesn't that **** you off.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

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Â* Â* Â* Â* Attachment Â* Â* Â*May 2

jmiller

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Jesse Stein

Fwd: dog fence€Ž - Forwarded message From:
Date: Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 12:25 €¦
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jmiller

WA#1747390€Ž - Jennifer Miller Sanyo Customer Service 3333 Sanyo Rd.
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Â* Â* Â* Â* Attachment Â* Â* Â*Apr 20

Ed M

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me, techsupport (3)

WA 1740207€Ž - Thanks very much for the advice. I'll give it a shot.

klem kedidelhopper wrote:

I'm really sorry guys. It looks like somehow almost everything I've
written over the past few weeks was (for want of a better term)
"vomited" into my last post, (which incidentally never even appeared
Here it is:

I got this set working and it actually works pretty well too. The
vibrator buffer cap though shows very slight leakage and I would like
to replace it. The original is a .0047mfd@ 1600V. I know that the cap
and transformer make up a kind of "tuned circuit" on these old radios
but I'm not sure how critical that was. I have a nice mylar .0056mfd@
2000V in my parts box and I although I wouldn't think so, I wonder if
that might be too far off from the OEM value to do the job. Thanks,
Lenny


We always used the exact value, but you may get away with it. A lot
of part warranties required it to be the exact value, and the capacitor
was cheaper than the vibrator or the transformer. They were capacitors
rated for buffer service, as well.





--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

On Tue, 03 May 2011 10:02:09 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

I'm really sorry guys. It looks like somehow almost everything I've
written over the past few weeks was (for want of a better term)
"vomited" into my last post, (which incidentally never even appeared
Here it is:

I got this set working and it actually works pretty well too. The
vibrator buffer cap though shows very slight leakage and I would like to
replace it. The original is a .0047mfd@ 1600V. I know that the cap and
transformer make up a kind of "tuned circuit" on these old radios but
I'm not sure how critical that was. I have a nice mylar .0056mfd@ 2000V
in my parts box and I although I wouldn't think so, I wonder if that
might be too far off from the OEM value to do the job. Thanks, Lenny

The cap across the vibrator is to suppress sparking of the reed switch
contacts. Like a cap in an old auto distributer with points. They will
both pit quickly and eventually fuse together if the cap isn't present.
The .0056 should work fine.



--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

On May 3, 3:25*pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Tue, 03 May 2011 10:02:09 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:
I'm really sorry guys. It looks like somehow almost everything I've
written over the past few weeks was (for want of a better term)
"vomited" into my last post, (which incidentally never even appeared
Here it is:

I got this set working and it actually works pretty well too. The
vibrator buffer cap though shows very slight leakage and I would like to
replace it. The original is a .0047mfd@ 1600V. I know that the cap and
transformer make up a kind of "tuned circuit" on these old radios but
I'm not sure how critical that was. I have a nice mylar .0056mfd@ 2000V
in my parts box and I although I wouldn't think so, I wonder if that
might be too far off from the OEM value to do the job. Thanks, Lenny

The cap across the vibrator is to suppress sparking of the reed switch
contacts. Like a cap in an old auto distributer with points. They will
both pit quickly and eventually fuse together if the cap isn't present.
The .0056 should work fine.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

I put in the .0056 and its working fine. Thanks, everyone Lenny