On Apr 19, 8:04*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 08:42:10 -0500, Hell Toupee
wrote:
On 4/18/2011 7:38 PM, HeyBub wrote:
*From Popular Mechanics:
"Small-engine repairmen tell PM that ethanol mixed with gasoline is
corroding and damaging chain saws, string trimmers and other outdoor
equipment at an alarming clip. As a result, a new market is growing in U.S.
hardware stores: Ethanol-free gas packaged in small cans that sell at a
premium but promise to make your small engines last."
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...ols/can-boutiq....
Urban legend. Those of us who live in states that have had 10%
ethanol/gasoline fuel for decades now have not had any problems with
it -- though for those who still insist, the gov't still allows gas
stations to sell pure gasoline for small engines, boats, and classic
cars. Just get it from the pump so labeled.
My snowblower has only ever had the E10 ethanol gas used in it. Bought
it in 1985. Still starts on the first pull. My brother-in-law uses the
ethanol fuel mix in his chainsaws with the same result: there are no
problems.
These claims made the rounds back in the 80s when the fuel mixture
changed. They've resurrected now because of the introduction of E15
and E20 ethanol mixtures into the marketplace. But the
higher-percentage ethanol mixtures are rarely offered, so they're easy
to avoid. As for the E10 mix, there's no issue with it.
NOT TRUE.
Just because you have E10 does not mean you WILL have problems - in a
very dry atmosphere you can often get away with it - and plastic tanks
are less likely to get condensation than metal tanks - ditto for full
vs half empty., and non-vented tanks (like on my chain-saw).
However, when ethanol fuel is combined with high humidity and extreme
temp changes, water DOES get absorbed by the ethanol, and itf that
moisture level gets high enough, and then the temperature drops, for
instance, you WILL get phase separation, where the alky and water drop
out of the fuel mix - and at higher power settingsparicularly on 2
stroke engines, the engine goes lean (and loses lubrication as well)
when that slug of watered down hooch hits theengine - and engine
damage occurs.
That is ONE documented problem with hooch-gas.
The SECOND problem is when that watered down hooch sits in the carb
and corodes all the copper-containing parts. That's anything brass, as
well as a lot of alloy parts. *Known as the "greenies", this corrosion
product plugs up jets and generally just fouls up everything it gets
close too.
*The THIRD problem is the hooch is an oxidizer. That's why it is added
to the fuel - to make the fuel burn "cleaner" But over time, the
oxidizer oxidizes the fuel without burning it - forming a "varnish"
that also changes the calibration of the carb by half plugging the
jets, and makes float valves stick, damage diphragms in diaphragm
carbs and pulse pumps.
That's only THREE reasons Hooch-Gas is not good for (particularly)
small engines.
There are others, but these are the main 3 - and NONE of them are "old
wives tales" or "Urban Legends", OR inconsequential.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
I agree. First, Popular Mechanics does a pretty good job vetting
urban
legends from fact. Second, there have been plenty of other stories
done, with interviews of guys who own repair shops, that have
reported similar findings.
Does it mean that every small engine will have problems or behave
the same? No. Personally, I've had mixed results. My lawn mower,
leaf blower, edger, and chain saw have been fine. However, my
Tecumseh snowblower carb, for some reason, gets fouled up
within a couple months max. I've had it be fine at the start of the
winter
when tested, then fail to start because of the carb a month and
a half later. And that is with gas stabilizer added. Yet that
same gas can be used in the other engines, left in them for 3X
as long, with no problems.
So, I'd say it depends. And I'd tend to believe repair shops,
who have far more experience with this than we do.