On 2011-04-01, wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 21:04:32 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 13:25:40 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Mar 31, 10:30??am, Ignoramus3470
wrote:
On 2011-03-31, Larry Jaques wrote:





On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 10:17:22 -0500, Ignoramus3470
wrote:

On 2011-03-31, Uffe B?rentsen wrote:

"Ignoramus23509" skrev i en meddelelse
news:74Sdnf_4UeoHYw7QnZ2dnUVZ_oWdnZ2d@giganews. com...
On 2011-03-31, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 21:34:49 -0500, Ignoramus23509
wrote:

Pete, look at this picture.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Linc...er/01-Starter-...

The commutator looks like ****.

Understatement.

Can you say "That starter is HISTORY!"? ??I knew you could.

Put it back together and pray for a core allowance. They might not if
you left the endcap off.

Well, so we have four people saying it is crap, and I agree.

No, 5 ;-)
See a lot of starters on a daily basis and that one is dead.
If you will try a rebuild of that starter you will minimum need a new rotor
and a new set of brushes for it.

I will call Napa tomorrow, if I can get what I want for $62 and they
take my old starter for core, AND I can have it on Friday, I will be
happy.

For that price you might or might not be able to buy the parts I listed.
What about the bearings/bushings, gears and, and......

I know for sure what I would go for :-)

PS If you are able to get the old one working by Friday, say 10 starts I
will be amazed.

So you would also get that rebuild at Napa, right?

Absolutely. ??Good price, honorable vendor, immediate access. What's to
think about. Just Do It!

Yep. I might even get the starter today, and work on the welder this
weekend!

My next question is the carb. Since fuel was so gummed up in the bowl,
it is probably gummed up in the carb? SShould I just take it off and
clean?

What sort of solvent works best for this?

i- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Carb cleaner, see what NAPA has. Used to have a gallon can for sale
with solvent in the bottom, a water seal on top and a basket you could
stick parts in to soak. Not the same stuff as you get in a spray can,
had really nice stuff like cresylic acid in it. Probably EPA'd to
death these days. Did the job, though. Had to make sure only metal
went into the basket, will eat gaskets and rubber parts. Once boiled
out with that stuff, you had to clean off the cleaner and blow dry
with an air hose. Engines didn't like the mix of cleaner and water if
you left it in the passages. May not be a whole lot of call for it in
the last couple of decades since everyone has gone to fuel injection.
Ditto for carb rebuild kits, which you probably will also need for
gaskets and maybe needle and seat.

You might try a can or two of the aeresol cleaner, it's getting spendy
these days, too. I've had floats stuck to the bottom of the bowl when
they'd been sitting long enough, breaking them free got the engines
running but the carbs still needed cleaning because of the gum left.

Stan


Sea Foam.

If that doesn't work, start looking for a "jiffy kit" and a can of
"carb dip"

Which carb is on that thing? If it is the Zenith R57 it was VERY
common on older tractors and industrial equiment - a fork lift company
would likely have the parts available. So would the antique tractor
guys.
The same basic engine was used in Case V series tractors, Cockshutt 20
and 540 tractors, Oliver Super 44 and 440, Massy 20 series and colt,
Co-op, and numerous other tractors. Some were smaller displacement
(the 163 was the last of the 4 cyl L Head Contis)
If it's a Marvel, parts will be VERY difficult to get hold of, but
the Zenith is a bolt-on replacement. If it is an F163 series 4000 Red
Seal, most likely it is the Zenith

You can get a lot of information at billswelderrepair.com, and I think
they have a lot of parts still available as well.

Thanks. I think that it is a Zenith. I looked tonight at it with a
light, and could not find a number.

Should I just take it off and take it to Napa? I will call Lincoln
tomorrow also. They may have replaced a carb, as he manual refers to a
diff carburetor. very unlike the one on the welder.

i