On Mar 2, 5:40*am, "dadiOH" wrote:

Good stuff but it is meant for interior use; however, Zinsser makes a slew
of others. *I've pretty much settled on 1-2-3 for
everything...applies/flows/covers well, drys quickly and sands well.http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=419

I just don't care for water based stain killers/blockers or primers.
They don't dry fast enough or hard enough for me. Since I use oil
based enamels, I don't like to put a hard resin over a soft latex
product. I only use water borne on sheetrock prep for repaints
because I will be putting latex on over it.

If I have heavy staining, knot bleeding, or other issues besides a
simple priming on fairly clean wood, this is my preference:

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=222

Another excellent product, it works as advertised. It doesn't spray
out as smoothly as the first one I recommended due to its higher solid
content, but it is close. While it says it is for "spot exterior
use", it works fine for ext. doors, trims, cabinetry, etc.

The best thing about the BIN for me is that when it all works
correctly, you don't have to sand before applying your top coats.

Spray your BIN on a large cabinet and drawers, clean the gun, go have
lunch. Come back, start finish coat applications. Not spray your
primer, wait until it is hard enough to sand, sand the project all
over again to scuff it up, wipe out with a damp rag, blow it/vacuum
it, let it dry 100% (since water based finishes are inherently more
porous), then start to apply the topcoats.

Think of the time you save with no sanding. Add on the fact you don't
have to clean the cabinet thoroughly to get any dust you will kick up
when spraying. Think of maintaining your clean finishing environment
because you didn't raise any dust in the air from sanding or
cleaning.

Even if you shuttle cabinets, doors, or whatever you are finishing
around from place to place to keep the dust down, that still requires
the processes required from sanding, but now with added project
handling. There is nothing like moving cabinets around in the
different stages of finish only to drop one... or an entry door....
yikes! Drop it and it is toast.

Everyone has their favorite processes, and I think as long as the end
product is satisfactory, it is important to use the ones you are
comfortable in using. For me personally, I try to use the best
technology that yields the best finish at the fastest pace.

As comment on that, I still have a colleague (read: another beer
drinking contractor) that used the BM product I referenced above to
repaint kitchen cabinets. He doesn't spray... he hand brushes! He
has one guy that does the most beautiful job on doors you have ever
seen.

They look sprayed; my brush work isn't that good, nor is my buddy's.
We can't figure out what he does, but his flatwork turns out like
glass. (In the cruel revenge of Karma, he can't cut a straight line
to save his ass!) My buddy won't spray as he doesn't have a good
spray guy, he won't invest in the equipment, tried it himself and
can't get the hang of mixing and gun adjustment, and is convinced that
the time it takes to isolate and tape off a room is more time than it
is worth.

On occasion he has paid me to spray metal exterior doors with enamels,
cabinet doors and drawer fronts for him, but he still brushes the rest
of a kitchen job. It all works out... he is an older fella with a lot
of older clients. Since he peddles that hand brushed business as
"things done the old way, the right way" he does indeed get his
price. Routinely, he gets about 15% or more than I do for the same
job. No reason for him to change, right?

Just a little additional commentary on the subject.

Robert