On Fri, 18 Feb 2011 10:06:06 -0600, Sunworshipper SW@GWNTUNDRA
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Feb 2011 06:42:36 -0800 (PST), Glenn Lyford
wrote:

On Feb 17, 11:37*am, Sunworshipper SW@GWNTUNDRA wrote:
Spent a couple of hours with my almost civil war patented horizontal
mill yesterday. Somebody has to take it apart, just seems like it is
always me that has to do this kind of stuff. The gib screws are .6" X
2" with single slots that are wallowed to the point of looking like
snow angle's wings. I got 4 out of 10 out and pounded on them with a
3/16" flat round ended punch counter clock wise.

When I started typing I thought of welding a tire iron slotted end...
don't have 6 of them. I really don't want to have welding marks on the
machine cause I can never see well enough. Nuts may work, but will be
worried that I'll weld the screws to the machine, the way I weld !

I use to have to get allen screws out of crankshafts and am pretty
good with drills and easy outs. Never did fail on a crank. But, having
trouble foreseeing a drill bit against a slot wallowed bigger on each
side than the middle. Couldn't remember if HHS shatters like carbide,
that didn't take long. The fast and dirty chisel cut a couple of times
till it shattered.

Got some funny dressed drill bit/mill bits from Mr. GD that I'm not
sure what they are for. 90 degree step so I guess putting counter
sinks with. Couldn't find them just a second ago, but know they are
there. *Maybe those and then to a real HHS american made step drill?
The step bit won't do it alone. Or maybe dressing a chosen drill bit
to looking like a large pencil point? I don't own any small metal
chisels and don't want to destroy a punch, but that might work, to
chisel the remaining sides to drill without total chaos.

I read all the recent posst about auto stuck studs, what else is
missing. I can borrow a die grinder, but don't have a sharp bit.

SW

Are you using left-handed bits? That way if it drills, fine. If the
bit grabs and tries to turn the screw, fine. The drill pulls the
screw out more often than you might think. If you're worried about
staying centered, maybe make a block with an appropriate sized hole to
help guide the bit?
--Glenn Lyford


Never had or tried left-landed.

You know that had crossed my mind, but when I read it, it occurred to
me that I could bolt a guide onto the top of the platen/table and have
it 90 degrees downward, drill through, and that all the screws should
be at the exact same plane.

That's a great idea, thanks. Best start looking for some metal that
is 90 degrees on the inside.


SW

Well, that seemed like it would work. Found a large angle iron and
drilled and taped a couple of holes and clamped on a piece of aluminum
with a hole for a guide and then clamped the angle iron down on the
platen. First bit was toast. Then found the smallest chisel and went
for it to make wallowed slot closer to the profile of the end of the
bit, and this stuff breaks more than cuts, second bit, toast. Now a
1/4" bit can be used readily, and it is toast. Looks like welding is
the next option. I wouldn't think they would make these so hard.

I think I'll just make up new ones with square heads.

Oh, looks like the slots in the platen are different from everything
else that I have. Guess they never made anything standard.


SW