Mike,.

I was having the same problem - to the point where I would clean and wax
them and a few days later it would warm up and rust would form.

It happened one day and I noticed I corner of hardbard was over the TS - I
moved it and there was no rust under it - the rest of the TS top had rust
all over it.
So I tried a little experiment - I cleaned both my jointer and TS - I took a
peice of HB cut it to the lenght of one of the jointer beds. About a week
later - it got down to about 25 then warmed to about 60 the next day.
Again - the TS and jointer were showing signs of rust (despite the wax i did
the otherday) - I moved the HB and it was still sparking clean. Now I have
3 peices of HB - 1 to fit onthe TS and 2 for the jointer. All marked - DO
NOT USE OR THROW AWAY.

Been using this for about 2 months now w/ great success. I just have to
remember that when im done for the day - to put them back on!

Good luck

-Rob


"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
om...
Hi again,

Well, I just posted about my pleasant table saw tuning experience, so I
have
to offset that with a bit of a frustration.

Before I tuned the saw, I cleaned the surface of some light rust. I live
in
CT and this winter has been VERY cold. My shop is in a dedicated bay of a
two-car garage, but there's a stud wall separating the two bays (a door
gives access between them). The "shop" is about 6 feet wider and deeper
than a "typical" garage bay, which puts it at about 16'x24'. The walls
are
all insulated, but there are two fairly large windows, two sky lights, and
the garage door isn't insulated.

I heat the shop with an 80,000 BTU propane heater, which generally does a
pretty good job. A few weeks ago when the outside temperature was about
35-40 deg. F, I was able to get the shop from about 40 degrees to about 75
degrees in maybe 20-30 minutes. Today, the shop was at a nice and cool
21.5
degrees F and it took a LOT longer (about 1.5 hours) to get to 70 degrees.

Now to the rust question, the light rust that I found on my table saw
wasn't
too big a deal. I just sprayed the surface liberally with WD-40 and let
it
sit for maybe 10 minutes, then used a green scotch brite pad and my ROS to
buff it off. Then I sprayed it with some Topcote and a good layer of
paste
wax.

Last week I had to do the same thing to my jointer (the 6" Delta
professional). The only thing different was the amount and severity of
the
rust. The jointer had some pretty thick rust and it was on just about
every
cast iron surface on the tool. It took me a LOT of effort to remove it,
even though the table saw and jointer had sat idle about the same amount
of
time.

Tonight, when I started to work on the tablesaw and as the garage/shop
heated up (using a 80,000 BTU propane heater), I noticed that the jointer
surfaces already had signs of light rust again (pretty faint, but still
there, and after only about a week since I cleaned it, and coated it with
Topcote (no wax on the jointer)). As the room became warmer, I saw SEVERE
condensation on the jointer. It was literally puddling up on the tables.
I
was mystified. I checked the tablesaw surfaces - no condensation. I
checked the bandsaw table - nothing. I even looked at a few of my
handplanes, etc. and no sign of condensation - it was just happening on
the
jointer.

Does this make any sense?? It sure explains why the jointer is suffering
the most from rust, but I don't really get why the jointer surfaces would
be
so much colder than the rest of the tools, which is the only reason
condensation would preferentially occur there. Has anyone else
experienced
this kind of thing?

I read the interesting review of rust removal and preventative agents in
the
latest Wood magazine and I have some Boeshield on order. I hope it does
the
trick, because I don't want to have to deal with this every week or two
when
I need to use the jointer.

Sorry for the long-winded post, but hopefully someone has some insight
into
this.

Mike