In article ,
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Bob La Londe wrote:

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote:

Not sure if its even an issue, but I was wondering if I cut a 1"
precision
linear shaft with something like a chop saw if I would distort and ruin
a
portion of it from the heat. If in doubt use the hacksaw I suppose.

I need two 20" pieces, but the best price I found was for a single 63"
piece. I suppose I could also just cut them a little bit long and let
them
stick out on the open end.



Sounds like Thompson rail. The ends will be held in mounts so nothing
to
worry about.

You can abrasive cut and not have HAZ, we cross section product every
day
to test case
hardness profile parts we make.

We use a abrasive saw that is flooded with coolant and a light touch on
the saw. Then
after polishing slowly we check it with a micro indentor.

Abrasive with coolant? I have seen plenty of cold cut saws with carbide
or
other tips. Tounrey blades are one that come to mind that work well at
slow
speeds with coolant, but didn't know there were abrasive blades that were
designed to run with coolant. I wish I had a slow speed coolant bath
saw,
but I can't justify the cost just yet.

Brick/block/tile saws are abrasive saws with coolant, and many aren't
especially expensive.

Hmmm... I do have a really nice overhead tile saw with a moving table. I
had not thought of that since it spins as fast as most other saws. It's a
diamond grit blade. You think it would do the trick? I got it to cut
bricks when I made a walk between the shop and the house.

If it spins too fast, or there is too little water coolant, cutting
ferrous metal will destroy the diamond blade.

Joe Gwinn