On 12/3/2010 9:32 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 12/3/2010 5:50 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 12/3/2010 4:02 AM, harry wrote:
On Dec 3, 4:40 am, zzz
wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:56:15 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff

wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin
it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet"
the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical.
Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the
right
solder for the application.

Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still
plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts.
Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools,
will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

You're full of ****, as usual.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

You really are stupid. You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts.
The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

They do, and will.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

You're completely clueless.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We have both in the UK. The leadfree is primarily for copper potable
water pipes.
He's right, they don't mix well.
The leadfree is a pain in the arse to use, the temperature has to be
far more exact and the fluxes aren't as good.

I have limited experience with lead free soldering copper plumbing. The
melting point is higher and I think it's too close to the highest temp
the flux can stand. A little too hot and the flux is shot. I have had
good luck using 60/40 rosin core to tin the copper pipes, then used the
lead free to solder the joint. It wicked it right in an never any leaks.
Yep I admit it, I put lead in potable water lines. Probably 1 or 2% lead
in the end. We lived this long with 60% lead, I don't think the tiny
amount I added will make a difference.

Here's the kit you should obtain to get you started. Once you get the
hang of it, you'll have no problem using lead free solder again.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/2g7t3ec

TDD

If I see it in my travels I will buy it. I noticed it said "Low melting
point of lead-free solder is ideal for copper plumbing installation".
Does that mean low melting point compared to lead solder, or compared to
other lead free plumbing solders? Any idea what the actual melting temp is?