On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 19:47:11 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/30/2010 7:06 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 00:02:14 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 11:53 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 23:12:57 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 14:55:01 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Nov 29, 12:51 pm, Steve wrote:
On 11/29/2010 7:14 AM, Hank wrote:





On Nov 29, 12:26 am, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

Also, when 1 solder two wires together, I twist the wires together,
then hold the iron to one side of the wire and hold the solder to the
opposite site. The wire should get hot and soak up the solder, right?
I've been practicing but it seems to be hit or miss so far.

Bonnie

As one beginner to another.....

First, I don't know much if anything about soldering, but I do solder
wires wires together pretty often.

Second, I only solder either aluminum or copper wires, which are easy.

Third, the advise you have received here is good, but they didn't
mention that the wire has to be clean too. If the wire is old and
oxidized, it has to be clipped off or cleaned too.

Fourth, use a resin core solder.

Fifth, I scape off my tips with a knife. I have even used a bench
grinder to grind them back to a point. Then I heat up the iron and
melt solder on the tip which helps clean it, then wipe off the excess
solder.

Hope these little tips help.

Hank~~~assuming it is a Pencil type soldering iron

you don't solder aluminum. You might think you are, but no, you're not.

--
Steve Barker

Like I said, I don't know much about soldering. I'm pretty sure the
wire is aluminum and stranded. It is high quality aircraft wire. It is
silver in color. Maybe its some alloy. Anyway, what I'm doing is
working for me. :-)

Hank
Aircraft wire is silver plated or tinned copper - and one of the
easiest types of wire to solder - it is "pre-tinned"

The stuff with the Teflon insulation?

TDD
Virtually all of it. Teflon, Tefzel, and all the other fancy schmansy
stuff.

I love that wire for electronics work and surprise, it's the best wire
in the world for soldering to those Bendix aerospace connectors and
making wiring harnesses. :-)

Teflon insulation doesn't burn but it does creep. It's not good around
anything even slightly sharp.

You mean it will slowly flow apart if it rests on a sharp edge and cause
a short circuit?

Yep. We used to have that problem with teflon insulated wire-wrap wire. The
Gardner-Denver machines could work with it reliably, but it was easy to screw
up by tightening the wires too tight. The intermittents would drive ya'
crazy.

The tough nylon jacket on THHN seems to resist
that sort of break in the insulation. Geez, I just thought of the
thousands of feet of that stuff I've pulled into conduits and cable
trays over the years. :-)

It generally happens when its under tension going around an edge.

Here is a good primer on soldering and tinning (using conduction
soldering - i.e., a simple soldering iron)

http://www.docstoc.com/docs/13553662...ing-Techniques

I usually screw up when I'm under tension, going around an edge, and
some inner surface rips all my clothes off. Don't you usually trim
text?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 19:47:11 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/30/2010 7:06 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 00:02:14 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 11:53 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 23:12:57 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 14:55:01 -0800 (PST),

wrote:

On Nov 29, 12:51 pm, Steve
wrote:
On 11/29/2010 7:14 AM, Hank wrote:





On Nov 29, 12:26 am, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try
tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to
"wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

Also, when 1 solder two wires together, I twist the wires
together,
then hold the iron to one side of the wire and hold the
solder to the
opposite site. The wire should get hot and soak up the
solder, right?
I've been practicing but it seems to be hit or miss so far.

Bonnie

As one beginner to another.....

First, I don't know much if anything about soldering, but I
do solder
wires wires together pretty often.

Second, I only solder either aluminum or copper wires, which
are easy.

Third, the advise you have received here is good, but they
didn't
mention that the wire has to be clean too. If the wire is
old and
oxidized, it has to be clipped off or cleaned too.

Fourth, use a resin core solder.

Fifth, I scape off my tips with a knife. I have even used a
bench
grinder to grind them back to a point. Then I heat up the
iron and
melt solder on the tip which helps clean it, then wipe off
the excess
solder.

Hope these little tips help.

Hank~~~assuming it is a Pencil type soldering iron

you don't solder aluminum. You might think you are, but no,
you're not.

--
Steve Barker

Like I said, I don't know much about soldering. I'm pretty
sure the
wire is aluminum and stranded. It is high quality aircraft
wire. It is
silver in color. Maybe its some alloy. Anyway, what I'm doing
is
working for me. :-)

Hank
Aircraft wire is silver plated or tinned copper - and one
of the
easiest types of wire to solder - it is "pre-tinned"

The stuff with the Teflon insulation?

TDD
Virtually all of it. Teflon, Tefzel, and all the other fancy
schmansy
stuff.

I love that wire for electronics work and surprise, it's the best
wire
in the world for soldering to those Bendix aerospace connectors
and
making wiring harnesses. :-)

Teflon insulation doesn't burn but it does creep. It's not good
around
anything even slightly sharp.

You mean it will slowly flow apart if it rests on a sharp edge and
cause
a short circuit?

Yep. We used to have that problem with teflon insulated wire-wrap
wire. The
Gardner-Denver machines could work with it reliably, but it was easy
to screw
up by tightening the wires too tight. The intermittents would drive
ya'
crazy.

The tough nylon jacket on THHN seems to resist
that sort of break in the insulation. Geez, I just thought of the
thousands of feet of that stuff I've pulled into conduits and cable
trays over the years. :-)

It generally happens when its under tension going around an edge.

Automotive electrical best practices from GM:

http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/electrical.pdf

In article ,
Tony Miklos wrote:

On 11/30/2010 12:39 AM, Smitty Two wrote:
In ,
Tony wrote:

Well it's been 31 years soldering electronics for a living for me, and
sorry, I don't use, nor need liquid flux.

Soldering electronics for a living, or making a living that involves
some soldering? I've had the liquid flux debate a number of times over
on s.e.r., and I'll say it again he If you don't use liquid flux, you
don't know what you're missing. Or, you don't really solder all that
much, and time and quality aren't all that important.

Some things, some times, sure, the flux core is enough. Nevertheless, go
to *any* facility where hand soldering is done on a production basis,
and you'll find a flux bottle at every workstation. Those little bottles
aren't there to gather dust.

Well I'm open to trying something new (to me anyway). What brand and
where do you buy the liquid flux you use? Is it supposed to be washed
off like rosin?

I buy it from distributors in my area who sell to industry. Mostly EIS,
and Wassco. For hand soldering, Kester 1544 is a good formula. It's an
RMA flux (RMA standing for Rosin, Mildly Activated) It does not need to
be washed off, but can be cleaned off with isopropyl and a Q-tip if you
like. The dispenser bottles are little plastic squeeze type with a fine
gauge stainless needle.

On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 21:24:27 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I usually screw up when I'm under tension, going around an edge, and
some inner surface rips all my clothes off.

But you've never been wrapped four times around a .025" post.

Don't you usually trim text?

Sometimes, if the history gets unwieldy, always with you because of your
dumbass posting style.

On 11/30/2010 9:33 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In ,
Tony wrote:

On 11/30/2010 12:39 AM, Smitty Two wrote:
In ,
Tony wrote:

Well it's been 31 years soldering electronics for a living for me, and
sorry, I don't use, nor need liquid flux.

Soldering electronics for a living, or making a living that involves
some soldering? I've had the liquid flux debate a number of times over
on s.e.r., and I'll say it again he If you don't use liquid flux, you
don't know what you're missing. Or, you don't really solder all that
much, and time and quality aren't all that important.

Some things, some times, sure, the flux core is enough. Nevertheless, go
to *any* facility where hand soldering is done on a production basis,
and you'll find a flux bottle at every workstation. Those little bottles
aren't there to gather dust.

Well I'm open to trying something new (to me anyway). What brand and
where do you buy the liquid flux you use? Is it supposed to be washed
off like rosin?

I buy it from distributors in my area who sell to industry. Mostly EIS,
and Wassco. For hand soldering, Kester 1544 is a good formula. It's an
RMA flux (RMA standing for Rosin, Mildly Activated) It does not need to
be washed off, but can be cleaned off with isopropyl and a Q-tip if you
like. The dispenser bottles are little plastic squeeze type with a fine
gauge stainless needle.

I probably have a small brush in top bottle of liquid flux somewhere
that I used when repairing cold solder joints on circuit boards when
I did it for a living. Quite often no extra solder was needed, just
a smidgen of flux and touch from the soldering iron. The bit of solder
on the tip of the iron would usually take care of it. There are times
when I'm suspicious that the weight of a unsupported component is the
cause of the problem, a hot melt glue gun is also a useful thing to
have on the repair bench. I had guys in the repair depot think I was
nuts for slamming portable equipment down on to my workbench after
repairing it. I had to explain that the gear was going to get a lot
rougher treatment out in the field. :-)

TDD

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.

If you have trouble tinning it is either because you can't get the
solder hot enough or the tip is not clean enough. Sounds to me that you
are using the wrong solder, too large and wrong type.

I always just used a damp folded up paper towel to wipe the tip. You
can sand or file the tip if you need to get one more use out of it,
don't otherwise.


Also, when 1 solder two wires together, I twist the wires together,
then hold the iron to one side of the wire and hold the solder to the
opposite site.

I heat the junction and feed in the solder at the junction, not on the
tip. But close to where everything meets.

I was in the electronic repair business just about forever. I wound
up soldering stuff I could barely see (SMD LSI) even with reading glasses!

Jeff



The wire should get hot and soak up the solder, right?
I've been practicing but it seems to be hit or miss so far.

Bonnie

"Jeff Thies" wrote in message
...
On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.

If you have trouble tinning it is either because you can't get the
solder hot enough or the tip is not clean enough. Sounds to me that you
are using the wrong solder, too large and wrong type.


This 95 SN 5 SB stuff may be the European solder. From what I have read
they have gone lead free in the electronics soldering. Also you are not
suspose to mix the two when repairing the equipment as they do not work well
together.

I don't even like that sn/sb for soldering pipes. I still have a couple of
pounds of the 50/50 tin/lead solder for my pipes if I need it.

About 30 years ago my wife and I were watching tv about the moonshine
makers. They mentioned the lead in the pipes and I told here one day the
trr huggers would say not to use the lead solder in the pipes. Sure enough
, they have.

On 12/1/2010 10:32 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Jeff wrote in message
...
On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.

If you have trouble tinning it is either because you can't get the
solder hot enough or the tip is not clean enough. Sounds to me that you
are using the wrong solder, too large and wrong type.


This 95 SN 5 SB stuff may be the European solder. From what I have read
they have gone lead free in the electronics soldering. Also you are not
suspose to mix the two when repairing the equipment as they do not work well
together.

I don't even like that sn/sb for soldering pipes. I still have a couple of
pounds of the 50/50 tin/lead solder for my pipes if I need it.

About 30 years ago my wife and I were watching tv about the moonshine
makers. They mentioned the lead in the pipes and I told here one day the
trr huggers would say not to use the lead solder in the pipes. Sure enough
, they have.


Moonshiners were/are using car radiators to distill their product which
was imparting all sorts of toxic substances into their mountain dew.

TDD

On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff Thies
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.


Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train. ROSIN CORE solder is NOT plumbing
solder.

If you have trouble tinning it is either because you can't get the
solder hot enough or the tip is not clean enough. Sounds to me that you
are using the wrong solder, too large and wrong type.

Lead free electronic solder is a royal pain - period.

I always just used a damp folded up paper towel to wipe the tip. You
can sand or file the tip if you need to get one more use out of it,
don't otherwise.


Also, when 1 solder two wires together, I twist the wires together,
then hold the iron to one side of the wire and hold the solder to the
opposite site.

I heat the junction and feed in the solder at the junction, not on the
tip. But close to where everything meets.

I was in the electronic repair business just about forever. I wound
up soldering stuff I could barely see (SMD LSI) even with reading glasses!

Jeff



The wire should get hot and soak up the solder, right?
I've been practicing but it seems to be hit or miss so far.

Bonnie
The wire should get hot and the solder should wick up the wire.
Putting the solder at the junction of the iron and the wire - or on a
printed circuit, more correctly at the junction of the pad and the
iron, enhances the heat flow. When the solder wets the pad, you slide
the iron against the component lead, and the solder should very
quickly wet the lead as well, forming a smooth fillet from the pad to
the component lead (or wire).

I know Smitty will likely argue with me, but tough.

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.


Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

ROSIN CORE solder is NOT plumbing
solder.

You are right, I missed that.


If you have trouble tinning it is either because you can't get the
solder hot enough or the tip is not clean enough. Sounds to me that you
are using the wrong solder, too large and wrong type.

Lead free electronic solder is a royal pain - period.

I imagine!


I always just used a damp folded up paper towel to wipe the tip. You
can sand or file the tip if you need to get one more use out of it,
don't otherwise.


Also, when 1 solder two wires together, I twist the wires together,
then hold the iron to one side of the wire and hold the solder to the
opposite site.

I heat the junction and feed in the solder at the junction, not on the
tip. But close to where everything meets.

I was in the electronic repair business just about forever. I wound
up soldering stuff I could barely see (SMD LSI) even with reading glasses!

Jeff



The wire should get hot and soak up the solder, right?
I've been practicing but it seems to be hit or miss so far.

Bonnie
The wire should get hot and the solder should wick up the wire.
Putting the solder at the junction of the iron and the wire - or on a
printed circuit, more correctly at the junction of the pad and the
iron, enhances the heat flow. When the solder wets the pad, you slide
the iron against the component lead, and the solder should very
quickly wet the lead as well, forming a smooth fillet from the pad to
the component lead (or wire).

I know Smitty will likely argue with me, but tough.

FWIW, I'm with you on this.

Jeff

On 11/30/2010 12:57 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 11/29/2010 9:23 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 17:01:40 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 9:41 AM, homer wrote:

On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 00:26:05 -0500, wrote:

snip

That's what the wet sponge is for. A little tray in my 40 year old
Weller temperature controlled soldering station. I have some 40 year
old tips for it that are still working fine. I bought it new and have
replaced a few parts over the years but it ran 8-12 hours a day for
years when I was doing bench work with few problems.

40 seems like a lot, but now that you mention it, those Weller irons are
workhorses. Tips lasted a long long time and you could replace whatever
part needed it. I have some vague memory of needing a new "body" every
dozen years or so. Never had more than a WP25, maybe the temp control
lasted longer! The Ungars were terrible.

Jeff



http://www.action-electronics.com/pd...ntechsheet.pdf

TDD

On 12/2/2010 1:01 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
On 11/30/2010 12:57 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 11/29/2010 9:23 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 17:01:40 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 9:41 AM, homer wrote:

On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 00:26:05 -0500, wrote:

snip

That's what the wet sponge is for. A little tray in my 40 year old
Weller temperature controlled soldering station. I have some 40 year
old tips for it that are still working fine. I bought it new and have
replaced a few parts over the years but it ran 8-12 hours a day for
years when I was doing bench work with few problems.

40 seems like a lot, but now that you mention it, those Weller irons are
workhorses. Tips lasted a long long time and you could replace whatever
part needed it. I have some vague memory of needing a new "body" every
dozen years or so. Never had more than a WP25, maybe the temp control
lasted longer! The Ungars were terrible.

Jeff



http://www.action-electronics.com/pd...ntechsheet.pdf


When I accidentally dropped the iron on the plastic case, it melted
a grove in it and Weller replaced it at no charge back in the 70's.
I replaced the heater element once and of course several tips but
that's all. The soldering station is still working like new. The
replacement for it has a sponge tray and iron holder that can be
snapped onto either side of the transformer housing.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51qfRFCKv4L.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

http://www.parts-express.com/images/.../372-140_s.jpg

TDD

Good grief what a lot of posts, all about anything but what the OP asked as
far as I can see.

To tin a soldering iron get a wet sponge.

Let the solder tip reach full temperature. They make little trays with
sponges in them just for ths purpose at Radio Shack & other electrical
supplies & box stores.

Wipe the hot tip on the sponge, moving it fast enough to not burn the sponge
(the water makes it easy) & dislodge the oxidation.

If a wet sponge doesn't work well enough, it might be necessary to gently
scrape the tip with a knife or any blade, held at right angles to the tip.
Then a few swipes across the sponge again on the tip, and it should take a
tin nicely.

It's in "good shape" when resin-core solder covers the tip in a nice,
usually shiny coat of solder. Shake off the excess solder. Done. It'll do a
much better job of transferring heat to whatever you are soldering if the
tip is clean and tinned.
Many people get the little tray with sponge and set it near the work so
if/when oxidation starts, a wipe or two on the sponge will renew the tinning
quickly.

Ths same informatioin is available many places on the web; especially
soldering tutorials.

HTH,

Twayne`

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff Thies wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.


Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still plenty of
leaded stuff around.

ROSIN CORE solder is NOT plumbing
solder.

You are right, I missed that.


If you have trouble tinning it is either because you can't get the
solder hot enough or the tip is not clean enough. Sounds to me that you
are using the wrong solder, too large and wrong type.

Lead free electronic solder is a royal pain - period.

I imagine!

The big problem is that it's impossible to tell if the joint is good. They
all look cold. It's a good excuse to get our technician to do all my
soldering now. ;-)
snip

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff Thies wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.


Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff Thies wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.


Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts. Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools, will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff Thies wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.


Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts. Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools, will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:56:15 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff Thies wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.


Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts. Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools, will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

You're full of ****, as usual.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

You really are stupid. You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts. The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

They do, and will.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

You're completely clueless.

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:40:33 -0600, "
wrote:



You really are stupid. You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts. The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?


And to repair something with a damaged component, what do you do? Wave
your magic wand?
You REPLACE the part - which DOES require reflowing the parts. And
mixing the two solders is NOT recommended practice.
And if the RoHS compliant part you use for replacement is not tin
coated (and very many parts today are ONLY stocked in RoHS, and a
large percentage of them are NOT tin coated), you will not get proper
component lead wetting at leaded solder temps, and higher temps will
often cause flux problems (black scale from flux overheating).

Like I said - you can get lucky sometimes - but repair of RoHS
equipment with leaded solder is NOT recommended, or best practice.

Not smart either.

You are a HACK.

On Dec 3, 4:40*am, "
wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:56:15 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff Thies wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in *for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. *It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.

Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics *like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. *There is still plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. *Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts. *Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. *The parts, and tools, will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

You're full of ****, as usual.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

You really are stupid. *You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts. *The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation *on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - *SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components *MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

They do, and will.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

You're completely clueless.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We have both in the UK. The leadfree is primarily for copper potable
water pipes.
He's right, they don't mix well.
The leadfree is a pain in the arse to use, the temperature has to be
far more exact and the fluxes aren't as good.

On 12/3/2010 4:02 AM, harry wrote:
On Dec 3, 4:40 am, zzz
wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:56:15 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.

Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts. Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools, will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

You're full of ****, as usual.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

You really are stupid. You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts. The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

They do, and will.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

You're completely clueless.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We have both in the UK. The leadfree is primarily for copper potable
water pipes.
He's right, they don't mix well.
The leadfree is a pain in the arse to use, the temperature has to be
far more exact and the fluxes aren't as good.

I have limited experience with lead free soldering copper plumbing. The
melting point is higher and I think it's too close to the highest temp
the flux can stand. A little too hot and the flux is shot. I have had
good luck using 60/40 rosin core to tin the copper pipes, then used the
lead free to solder the joint. It wicked it right in an never any
leaks. Yep I admit it, I put lead in potable water lines. Probably 1
or 2% lead in the end. We lived this long with 60% lead, I don't think
the tiny amount I added will make a difference.

On 12/2/2010 2:29 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 12/2/2010 1:01 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
On 11/30/2010 12:57 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 11/29/2010 9:23 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 17:01:40 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 9:41 AM, homer wrote:

On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 00:26:05 -0500, wrote:

snip

That's what the wet sponge is for. A little tray in my 40 year old
Weller temperature controlled soldering station. I have some 40 year
old tips for it that are still working fine. I bought it new and have
replaced a few parts over the years but it ran 8-12 hours a day for
years when I was doing bench work with few problems.

40 seems like a lot, but now that you mention it, those Weller irons are
workhorses. Tips lasted a long long time and you could replace whatever
part needed it. I have some vague memory of needing a new "body" every
dozen years or so. Never had more than a WP25, maybe the temp control
lasted longer! The Ungars were terrible.

Jeff



http://www.action-electronics.com/pd...ntechsheet.pdf


When I accidentally dropped the iron on the plastic case, it melted
a grove in it and Weller replaced it at no charge back in the 70's.
I replaced the heater element once and of course several tips but
that's all. The soldering station is still working like new. The
replacement for it has a sponge tray and iron holder that can be
snapped onto either side of the transformer housing.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51qfRFCKv4L.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

http://www.parts-express.com/images/.../372-140_s.jpg

TDD

I think I have the next model up, "Weller EC 2001" adjustable and with
digital temperature readout. Great tool! It's over 20 years old and
there were many times it was on 8 hours a day. I think I replaced the
whole heater and cord once, lots of tips.

My old Pace solder sucker went through a lot of heaters, the second one
I bought is much better, (Pace ST115) I think it's been about 8 years
with no problems. I love to desolder a 40 pin IC and have it litteraly
fall out of the board.

On Fri, 3 Dec 2010 01:02:19 -0800 (PST), harry wrote:

On Dec 3, 4:40*am, "
wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:56:15 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff Thies wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in *for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. *It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical. Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the right
solder for the application.

Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics *like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. *There is still plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. *Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts. *Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. *The parts, and tools, will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

You're full of ****, as usual.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

You really are stupid. *You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts. *The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation *on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - *SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components *MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

They do, and will.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

You're completely clueless.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We have both in the UK. The leadfree is primarily for copper potable
water pipes.

We have lead-free solder for copper pipes, as well.

He's right, they don't mix well.

Nonsense. Electronic solders work fine for either. Mixing them in a process
can cause problems, but repairs are not "mixing".

The leadfree is a pain in the arse to use, the temperature has to be
far more exact and the fluxes aren't as good.

Right, which is why I use leaded solder even on RoHS boards (as long as they
aren't shipping to a customer, marked as RoHS compliant). It works fine.

Claire is a moron.

On Fri, 03 Dec 2010 00:26:06 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:40:33 -0600, "
wrote:



You really are stupid. You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts. The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?


And to repair something with a damaged component, what do you do? Wave
your magic wand?

Replace it, moron.

You REPLACE the part - which DOES require reflowing the parts. And
mixing the two solders is NOT recommended practice.

You're obviously clueless. For pretty much anything other than BGAs you use a
soldering iron. Even for them one can do a reflow of the one part, rather
than the entire board. They have tools to do just that.

And if the RoHS compliant part you use for replacement is not tin
coated (and very many parts today are ONLY stocked in RoHS, and a
large percentage of them are NOT tin coated), you will not get proper
component lead wetting at leaded solder temps, and higher temps will
often cause flux problems (black scale from flux overheating).

Complere nonsense. Almost *all* parts are tin plated.

Like I said - you can get lucky sometimes - but repair of RoHS
equipment with leaded solder is NOT recommended, or best practice.

You're absolutely clueless.

Not smart either.

No, you're not.

You are a HACK.

No, I are an engineer. I do this stuff every day.

On 12/3/2010 5:50 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 12/3/2010 4:02 AM, harry wrote:
On Dec 3, 4:40 am, zzz
wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:56:15 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin
it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet"
the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical.
Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the
right
solder for the application.

Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still
plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts.
Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools,
will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

You're full of ****, as usual.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

You really are stupid. You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts. The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

They do, and will.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

You're completely clueless.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We have both in the UK. The leadfree is primarily for copper potable
water pipes.
He's right, they don't mix well.
The leadfree is a pain in the arse to use, the temperature has to be
far more exact and the fluxes aren't as good.

I have limited experience with lead free soldering copper plumbing. The
melting point is higher and I think it's too close to the highest temp
the flux can stand. A little too hot and the flux is shot. I have had
good luck using 60/40 rosin core to tin the copper pipes, then used the
lead free to solder the joint. It wicked it right in an never any leaks.
Yep I admit it, I put lead in potable water lines. Probably 1 or 2% lead
in the end. We lived this long with 60% lead, I don't think the tiny
amount I added will make a difference.

I'll share my secret weapon for using lead free solder on copper potable
water pipe. It's "Oatey lead free tinning flux" and it's available in
a small tube, can or tub. It's flux with powdered lead free solder mixed
in. I recommend to everyone who's working on copper water pipe.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/2favjw6

TDD

On 12/3/2010 5:50 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 12/3/2010 4:02 AM, harry wrote:
On Dec 3, 4:40 am, zzz
wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:56:15 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin
it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet"
the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical.
Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the
right
solder for the application.

Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still
plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts.
Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools,
will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

You're full of ****, as usual.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

You really are stupid. You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts. The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

They do, and will.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

You're completely clueless.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We have both in the UK. The leadfree is primarily for copper potable
water pipes.
He's right, they don't mix well.
The leadfree is a pain in the arse to use, the temperature has to be
far more exact and the fluxes aren't as good.

I have limited experience with lead free soldering copper plumbing. The
melting point is higher and I think it's too close to the highest temp
the flux can stand. A little too hot and the flux is shot. I have had
good luck using 60/40 rosin core to tin the copper pipes, then used the
lead free to solder the joint. It wicked it right in an never any leaks.
Yep I admit it, I put lead in potable water lines. Probably 1 or 2% lead
in the end. We lived this long with 60% lead, I don't think the tiny
amount I added will make a difference.

Here's the kit you should obtain to get you started. Once you get the
hang of it, you'll have no problem using lead free solder again.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/2g7t3ec

TDD

On 12/3/2010 6:13 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 12/2/2010 2:29 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 12/2/2010 1:01 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
On 11/30/2010 12:57 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 11/29/2010 9:23 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 17:01:40 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 11/29/2010 9:41 AM, homer wrote:

On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 00:26:05 -0500, wrote:

snip

That's what the wet sponge is for. A little tray in my 40 year old
Weller temperature controlled soldering station. I have some 40 year
old tips for it that are still working fine. I bought it new and have
replaced a few parts over the years but it ran 8-12 hours a day for
years when I was doing bench work with few problems.

40 seems like a lot, but now that you mention it, those Weller irons are
workhorses. Tips lasted a long long time and you could replace whatever
part needed it. I have some vague memory of needing a new "body" every
dozen years or so. Never had more than a WP25, maybe the temp control
lasted longer! The Ungars were terrible.

Jeff



http://www.action-electronics.com/pd...ntechsheet.pdf


When I accidentally dropped the iron on the plastic case, it melted
a grove in it and Weller replaced it at no charge back in the 70's.
I replaced the heater element once and of course several tips but
that's all. The soldering station is still working like new. The
replacement for it has a sponge tray and iron holder that can be
snapped onto either side of the transformer housing.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51qfRFCKv4L.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

http://www.parts-express.com/images/.../372-140_s.jpg

TDD

I think I have the next model up, "Weller EC 2001" adjustable and with
digital temperature readout. Great tool! It's over 20 years old and
there were many times it was on 8 hours a day. I think I replaced the
whole heater and cord once, lots of tips.

My old Pace solder sucker went through a lot of heaters, the second one
I bought is much better, (Pace ST115) I think it's been about 8 years
with no problems. I love to desolder a 40 pin IC and have it litteraly
fall out of the board.

I love those vacuum desoldering stations, I had one sold by ECG back in
the late 70's and like you said, a DIP chip would often fall out in your
hand after sucking the melted solder off the circuit board. The ECG unit
was affordable by just about any electronic tech back then.

TDD

On 12/3/2010 9:32 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 12/3/2010 5:50 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 12/3/2010 4:02 AM, harry wrote:
On Dec 3, 4:40 am, zzz
wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:56:15 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff

wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin
it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet"
the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical.
Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the
right
solder for the application.

Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still
plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts.
Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools,
will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

You're full of ****, as usual.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

You really are stupid. You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts.
The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

They do, and will.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

You're completely clueless.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We have both in the UK. The leadfree is primarily for copper potable
water pipes.
He's right, they don't mix well.
The leadfree is a pain in the arse to use, the temperature has to be
far more exact and the fluxes aren't as good.

I have limited experience with lead free soldering copper plumbing. The
melting point is higher and I think it's too close to the highest temp
the flux can stand. A little too hot and the flux is shot. I have had
good luck using 60/40 rosin core to tin the copper pipes, then used the
lead free to solder the joint. It wicked it right in an never any leaks.
Yep I admit it, I put lead in potable water lines. Probably 1 or 2% lead
in the end. We lived this long with 60% lead, I don't think the tiny
amount I added will make a difference.

Here's the kit you should obtain to get you started. Once you get the
hang of it, you'll have no problem using lead free solder again.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/2g7t3ec

TDD

If I see it in my travels I will buy it. I noticed it said "Low melting
point of lead-free solder is ideal for copper plumbing installation".
Does that mean low melting point compared to lead solder, or compared to
other lead free plumbing solders? Any idea what the actual melting temp is?

On 12/4/2010 9:57 AM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 12/3/2010 9:32 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 12/3/2010 5:50 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 12/3/2010 4:02 AM, harry wrote:
On Dec 3, 4:40 am, zzz
wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:56:15 -0500, wrote:
On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 21:23:45 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 22:07:07 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 18:25:07 -0600, "
wrote:

On Thu, 02 Dec 2010 01:43:38 -0500, Jeff
wrote:

On 12/1/2010 5:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Dec 2010 10:15:47 -0500, Jeff

wrote:

On 11/29/2010 12:26 AM, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin
it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. It doesn't seem to "wet"
the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

This is plumbing solder, get some designed for electrical.
Something
fairly small. 60/40 tin/lead (or is it the other way). Use the
right
solder for the application.

Not necessarily true - the lead free solder madness has hit
electronics like a frieght train.

Lovely. Looks like I got out of the repair business in time.

Lead-free solder isn't required in the US, yet. There is still
plenty of
leaded stuff around.

It IS required if the device is assembled with lead free - the two
don't mix very well.

Bull****. Leaded solder works just fine with unleaded parts.
Better, in
fact, because you can use lower temperature. The parts, and tools,
will be
"contaminated" but that doesn't matter for US consumption.

California has RoHS laws on the books since 2003 - with compliance
required by 2007 - so you do see lead-free solder mandated in
parts of
the USA

And as far as you "bull****" is concerned, you are WRONG. Hate to
tell
you this, but you don't know as much as you think you do.

You're full of ****, as usual.

Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

You really are stupid. You don't need to reflow the lead-free parts.
The
subject is using leaded solder for repairs, remember?

This is from Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp

You can read "the rest of the story" at:
http://www.circuitnet.com/articles/article_39990.shtml

The article by Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation on the same page agrees.

Lots of other expert opinion out there agrees with me - SOME RoHS
(lead free) compliant components MAY work OK with leaded solder, many
will not - and anyone who is not aware of the consequenses of using
the wrong solder with the wrong parts should not be working on newer
electronic equipment.

They do, and will.

Just because you guys have never seen a problem does not mean it
doesn't exist - it just means you've been, up untill now, VERY lucky.

You're completely clueless.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We have both in the UK. The leadfree is primarily for copper potable
water pipes.
He's right, they don't mix well.
The leadfree is a pain in the arse to use, the temperature has to be
far more exact and the fluxes aren't as good.

I have limited experience with lead free soldering copper plumbing. The
melting point is higher and I think it's too close to the highest temp
the flux can stand. A little too hot and the flux is shot. I have had
good luck using 60/40 rosin core to tin the copper pipes, then used the
lead free to solder the joint. It wicked it right in an never any leaks.
Yep I admit it, I put lead in potable water lines. Probably 1 or 2% lead
in the end. We lived this long with 60% lead, I don't think the tiny
amount I added will make a difference.

Here's the kit you should obtain to get you started. Once you get the
hang of it, you'll have no problem using lead free solder again.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/2g7t3ec

TDD

If I see it in my travels I will buy it. I noticed it said "Low melting
point of lead-free solder is ideal for copper plumbing installation".
Does that mean low melting point compared to lead solder, or compared to
other lead free plumbing solders? Any idea what the actual melting temp is?

I don't know without looking it up but I do have experience with the
product which makes using lead free solder for copper plumbing very
easy. The addition of powdered solder to the flux assures a reliable
joint without wasting gobs of solder and flux. With a tight fitting,
I've found that there may be no need for additional solder.

TDD

On Fri, 03 Dec 2010 18:44:24 -0600, "
wrote:



Claire is a moron.
I don't know who this Claire is - might well be a moron.
However,
This from an expert:
Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes. Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp
Mr. Dixon has been in the electronics field for over twenty years and
is the Global Marketing Director with the electronics group of Henkel.
Prior to joining Henkel, he worked for Raytheon, Camalot Systems, and
Universal Instruments.

I'll take his word over someone ( a usenet engineer) who fudges his ID
on usenet.

And another expert agrees:
Many of the components manufactured in the last few years have been
lead free, especially surface mount chip components as they are Tin
plated.

Can you solder these with 60/40 tin/lead solders, the answer is yes
and millions of solder joint have been soldered this way for years.
The problem however is some of the Lead-Free component plated RoHS
components have a SAC alloy for a lead coating and this is the issue.

The 60/40 alloy will not be hot enough to melt the SAC alloy to create
a sound joint. Yes, many papers have been are being published stating
that this will work, but keep in mind the thermal profile and the
length of time the solder joint needs to be above the reflow
temperature to all complete dissolution of the Tin/Lead into the SAC
alloy coating or solder balls on the components. This is much
different than what was used to the low temperature Tin/Lead alloys
and dwell times above the reflow temperature is going to have to
increase to create a sound solder joint.

Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation
At EPTAC Corporation, Mr. Lambert oversees content of course
offerings, IPC Certification programs and provides customers with
expert consultation in electronics manufacturing, including RoHS/WEEE
and lead free issues. Leo is also the IPC General Chairman for the
Assembly/Joining Process Committee.

Again, I'll take the word of an acknowleged expert in the field over
that of the unknown usenet engineer.

If you are 100% certain your RoHS compliant components have tin
coating, you CAN use leaded solder.
If you are just ASSuming all RoHS compliant components have tin coated
leads, you are treading on extremely thin ice.
I have stated that using leaded solder with RoHS compliant components
is "not best practice" and can lead to product failures.
I'm not saying you can't get away with it some or most of the time -
I'm saying it is not correct, and it is wrong and dangerous to say it
is "safe" or "proper" to solder RoHS compliant components with regular
lead-based solders.
Recommending it is not being responsible, without at least adding the
possibilities of the "gotchas" which are well documented and
recognized by the experts, and which I have provided cites for.

On Sun, 05 Dec 2010 22:41:14 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 03 Dec 2010 18:44:24 -0600, "
wrote:



Claire is a moron.
I don't know who this Claire is - might well be a moron.

Misspelled, *that* wasn't intended as a slight.

However,
This from an expert:
Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes.

Other than BGAs, one doesn't reflow the part, dummy. The solder paste gets
reflowed. ...and once again, we were talking about *repair*.

Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

Wrong. As long as the solder paste is appropriate, it doesn't much matter
whether the part is tin, tin-lead, or gold (or any other commonly used finish)
tin-lead solder will wick just fine. ...better than lead-free solder will on
the same parts, in fact.

Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp
Mr. Dixon has been in the electronics field for over twenty years and
is the Global Marketing Director with the electronics group of Henkel.
Prior to joining Henkel, he worked for Raytheon, Camalot Systems, and
Universal Instruments.

You can't read.

I'll take his word over someone ( a usenet engineer) who fudges his ID
on usenet.

Yes indeed, who would believe a Usenet liar, like Clare?

And another expert agrees:
Many of the components manufactured in the last few years have been
lead free, especially surface mount chip components as they are Tin
plated.

Indeed, almost all *are* tin plated.

Can you solder these with 60/40 tin/lead solders, the answer is yes
and millions of solder joint have been soldered this way for years.
The problem however is some of the Lead-Free component plated RoHS
components have a SAC alloy for a lead coating and this is the issue.

The 60/40 alloy will not be hot enough to melt the SAC alloy to create
a sound joint. Yes, many papers have been are being published stating
that this will work, but keep in mind the thermal profile and the
length of time the solder joint needs to be above the reflow
temperature to all complete dissolution of the Tin/Lead into the SAC
alloy coating or solder balls on the components. This is much
different than what was used to the low temperature Tin/Lead alloys
and dwell times above the reflow temperature is going to have to
increase to create a sound solder joint.

Nonsense. It works fine.

Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation
At EPTAC Corporation, Mr. Lambert oversees content of course
offerings, IPC Certification programs and provides customers with
expert consultation in electronics manufacturing, including RoHS/WEEE
and lead free issues. Leo is also the IPC General Chairman for the
Assembly/Joining Process Committee.

Again, I'll take the word of an acknowleged expert in the field over
that of the unknown usenet engineer.

If you are 100% certain your RoHS compliant components have tin
coating, you CAN use leaded solder.

They *all* are. Yes, I have checked all of our parts because that's part of
what I do.

Back to the original point, *REPAIR*. Leaded solder is just fine to repair
RoHS gizmos.

If you are just ASSuming all RoHS compliant components have tin coated
leads, you are treading on extremely thin ice.

Clueless Clare.

I have stated that using leaded solder with RoHS compliant components
is "not best practice" and can lead to product failures.

Again, clueless. Repairing RoHS boards with leaded solder is, in fact, better
than using lead free precisely because of the difference in temperatures and
better wetting.

I'm not saying you can't get away with it some or most of the time -
I'm saying it is not correct, and it is wrong and dangerous to say it
is "safe" or "proper" to solder RoHS compliant components with regular
lead-based solders.
Recommending it is not being responsible, without at least adding the
possibilities of the "gotchas" which are well documented and
recognized by the experts, and which I have provided cites for.

Clueless Clare backpedals more.

On Nov 29, 12:26*am, wrote:
How do you know when your soldering iron is tinned?
I keep mine plugged in *for 5-10 minutes then when I try tin it, the
solder beads up and just drips offs. *It doesn't seem to "wet" the
tip.
Is it suppose to wet the tip of the soldering iron?

I'm using non lead solder, 95%Sn, 5% Sb (Tin/Antimony).
Rosin core.

Also, when 1 solder two wires together, I twist the wires together,
then hold the iron to one side of the wire and hold the solder to the
opposite site. *The wire should get hot and soak up the solder, right?
I've been practicing but it seems to be hit or miss so far.

Bonnie

SIMPLE ENOUGH....ALL THE HYPE IS SIMPLY MARVELOUS....
CLEAN THE TIP OFF WITH STEEL WOOL, THEN APPLY SOME LIQUID FLUX
LIGHTLY, FOLLOWED BY SOLDER AND WALLAH!
IT IS TINNED...A CHILD CAN DO IT, NO NEED FOR 100+ RESPONSES TO GET
THAT.

PATECUM

WALLAH!

Just what the hell is "WALLAH" anyway?

On 12/6/2010 4:46 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:

WALLAH!

Just what the hell is "WALLAH" anyway?

I think it is a type of onion..

http://www.sweetonions.org/

Tony Miklos wrote:
WALLAH!

Just what the hell is "WALLAH" anyway?

A halal form of walhalla??

On Sun, 05 Dec 2010 23:38:31 -0600, "
wrote:

On Sun, 05 Dec 2010 22:41:14 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 03 Dec 2010 18:44:24 -0600, "
wrote:



Claire is a moron.
I don't know who this Claire is - might well be a moron.

Misspelled, *that* wasn't intended as a slight.

However,
This from an expert:
Traditional tin-lead materials are not compatible with lead-free
device finishes.

Other than BGAs, one doesn't reflow the part, dummy. The solder paste gets
reflowed. ...and once again, we were talking about *repair*.



Because proper reflow for lead-free materials can
only be achieved with higher temperatures, attempting to process
lead-free terminated devices in 183?C tin-lead conditions leads to
incomplete wetting and the related issues of voiding and opens.

Wrong. As long as the solder paste is appropriate, it doesn't much matter
whether the part is tin, tin-lead, or gold (or any other commonly used finish)
tin-lead solder will wick just fine. ...better than lead-free solder will on
the same parts, in fact.

Doug Dixon, Global Marketing Director
Henkel Corp
Mr. Dixon has been in the electronics field for over twenty years and
is the Global Marketing Director with the electronics group of Henkel.
Prior to joining Henkel, he worked for Raytheon, Camalot Systems, and
Universal Instruments.

You can't read.

I'll take his word over someone ( a usenet engineer) who fudges his ID
on usenet.

Yes indeed, who would believe a Usenet liar, like Clare?

And another expert agrees:
Many of the components manufactured in the last few years have been
lead free, especially surface mount chip components as they are Tin
plated.

Indeed, almost all *are* tin plated.

Can you solder these with 60/40 tin/lead solders, the answer is yes
and millions of solder joint have been soldered this way for years.
The problem however is some of the Lead-Free component plated RoHS
components have a SAC alloy for a lead coating and this is the issue.

The 60/40 alloy will not be hot enough to melt the SAC alloy to create
a sound joint. Yes, many papers have been are being published stating
that this will work, but keep in mind the thermal profile and the
length of time the solder joint needs to be above the reflow
temperature to all complete dissolution of the Tin/Lead into the SAC
alloy coating or solder balls on the components. This is much
different than what was used to the low temperature Tin/Lead alloys
and dwell times above the reflow temperature is going to have to
increase to create a sound solder joint.

Nonsense. It works fine.


Untill it doesn't.
Leo Lambert, Vice President, Technical Director
EPTAC Corporation
At EPTAC Corporation, Mr. Lambert oversees content of course
offerings, IPC Certification programs and provides customers with
expert consultation in electronics manufacturing, including RoHS/WEEE
and lead free issues. Leo is also the IPC General Chairman for the
Assembly/Joining Process Committee.

Again, I'll take the word of an acknowleged expert in the field over
that of the unknown usenet engineer.

If you are 100% certain your RoHS compliant components have tin
coating, you CAN use leaded solder.

They *all* are. Yes, I have checked all of our parts because that's part of
what I do.

Back to the original point, *REPAIR*. Leaded solder is just fine to repair
RoHS gizmos.

If you are just ASSuming all RoHS compliant components have tin coated
leads, you are treading on extremely thin ice.

Clueless Clare.

I have stated that using leaded solder with RoHS compliant components
is "not best practice" and can lead to product failures.

Again, clueless. Repairing RoHS boards with leaded solder is, in fact, better
than using lead free precisely because of the difference in temperatures and
better wetting.

I'm not saying you can't get away with it some or most of the time -
I'm saying it is not correct, and it is wrong and dangerous to say it
is "safe" or "proper" to solder RoHS compliant components with regular
lead-based solders.
Recommending it is not being responsible, without at least adding the
possibilities of the "gotchas" which are well documented and
recognized by the experts, and which I have provided cites for.

Clueless Clare backpedals more.


No backpdaling at all.
I said in the beginning you will often get away with it, but it is
not the "recommended" way, it is not "best practice" and in some cases
it WILL bite you.

In your case you have double checked and all your components are tin
coated leads, so for you it will work.
Some components are NOT tin coated, and those can cause problems.

Everyone on the list is aware of it now , and knows your opinion.
They also now know that there CAN be issues - so they can do as they
like, and take their chances in situations where they are not sure of
the coating if they want to.

In article ,
George wrote:
On 12/6/2010 4:46 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:

WALLAH!

Just what the hell is "WALLAH" anyway?

I think it is a type of onion..

http://www.sweetonions.org/

It is another spelling variation on the common usenet exclamation often
written as "viola"


--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

On Dec 6, 4:46*pm, Tony Miklos wrote:
WALLAH!

Just what the hell is "WALLAH" anyway?

APPARENTLY A NEW TROLL TREAT.

PATECUM