mm wrote:

Can someone explain why you need a contractor to install a
furnace? If you're a real red-blooded, meat-eating man who
knows how to swing a

Hey, that's me!

Yes, and we both still run windows 98. Because I'm that type of "Guy".

Sort of instead of bypass duct, how about about a very wide duct

Yes, that would work as well.

If I *had* to buy a new furnace - then I'd buy a new furnace,
gut the **** out of it (rip out the electronics, ECM motor
and ignitor) and

What's wrong with a) the electronics, b) the ECM motor,
and c) the ignitor^^. Seriously.

Electronics are fine in my den, but not my furnace. Just read these
home / hvac forums for how many people have had to replace various
sensors and main boards and how much those parts can cost. ECM motor is
a complete crock of ****. You save maybe 100 watts compared to running
a 1/4 HP AC motor (which is about 1 penny an hour, or about $100 a year
if the fan is running 24/7/365) but the motor will run you $400 to $800
to replace if it breaks. Besides, the extra 100 watts goes into heat
that you can use in the winter anyways. And the ignitor - ask how many
people have had issues with those.

^^Okay, I know what's wrong with the ignitor, but you must
have some experience if you think you can put in a pilot,
especially on a furnace designed for an ignitor.
More than the average red-blooded meat-eating man.

You'd really only know once you have the unit taken apart. I would
assume that you'd simply place the pilot light in the same spot the
ignitor is located, and the flames will spread to the burners the exact
same way.

Isn't it easier to install the way they sell it?

Sure it's easier, but...

IF those extra parts are unreliable, when they actually break,
you can put in the simple replacements then.

Then it's too late. You need the heat, and you don't have the time to
perform custom mods. The best time to do it is when your old furnace is
still up and running.

I found a "book" online for 10 dollars on how to install a
furnace.

Instructions:

1) shut off your gas valve which should be located 6 feet from your
furnace. Shut off the electrical service to the furnace at your main
breaker panel.

2) disconnect thermostat and AC power from the furnace cabinet.
disconnect the gas line from the furnace.

3) disconnect the return air and plenum ductwork from the furnace
cabinet. Leave AC coils in place in their duct. Support with wires
from above if necessary.

4) move old furnace out of the way, move new furnace into place.

5) modify ductwork as needed.

6) connect ac power and thermostat wires to new furnace.

7) connect natural gas line to furnace. modify pipe lengths and bends
as necessary. use pipe sealant as directed.

8) turn on gas valve to furnace. check for leaks (use soapy water if
you want).

9) turn on AC power to furnace at main breaker panel.

10) program your thermostat as desired.

The book I got said the hardest part is getting someone to sell
you the furnace!

I also suspect that would be the situation. The *******s...