On Mon, 29 Nov 2010 18:26:45 -0500, Bill wrote:

Ecnerwal wrote:
In ,
wrote:
I would like to try to optimize my lighting? As drawn, the distances of
the lights from the walls are 36" and 24" respectively. Assume the
walls will be white (for decent reflectivity). The floor is concrete.
I'm going to keep the light in front of the subpanel 36" away from it to
satisfy relevant codes (regarding a "free workspace").

The longer workbench is in the space that should be kept clear. The
light is not a problem (actually, a light at the panel is a requirement,
as is an outlet at the panel - both to make working on the panel
civilized.)

Put the bench lights on a different switch, and more over the bench (and
move the bench to a different wall if it's not on wheels.) You can have
just those on for bench work, and just the others on for non-bench-work,
and both on for jobs that go back and forth. Or get more specific and
provide a light for each machine, with a switch for it, and turn it on
when working on that machine (depends how much you care about saving
electricity .vs. some added cost and complexity (not much) in wiring).
Not as much use if the shop is cold and the florescent lights take a
long time to come to full brightness. The light for the tablesaw should
be high-frequency ballast and/or include at least one incandescent
(often a spot pointed at the blade) that does not "flicker", to avoid
the "strobe effect" where the blade seems to stand still as it slows
down (while still spinning.)

People go with all sorts of options, and work under all sorts of
conditions. As you get older, you'll want more light to maintain acuity
as your eyes go to crap, unless you got really lucky in the eye lottery.
"Blasting yourself out" is almost impossible, given the amount of light
in full sun .vs. what we achieve with any indoor lighting. Providing
appropriate light for the task at hand is more like it (ie, if you are
not doing any fiddly work away from bench or machines, less light is
appropriate there, particularly if it's something like lumber storage -
OTOH, if you are finishing large projects away from the bench, you'll
want lights you can turn on for that process, at least.)

If you have any "shop lights" around the house, they are easy to hang
and move and get an idea of where you are putting permanent fixtures.
Sometimes real life is better than any computer model you can reasonably
expect to find for free.

Paint the floor white. It won't stay pristine white, but it will reflect
more light than a gray or red floor, and paint keeps the concrete dust
down.

This is what - 20 x 25 x 8 ft high? I'd guesstimate that you'd want at
least 6 fixtures for general work lighting, and more on the bench.

Thank you. The replies to my original post put new (and worthwhile)
ideas in my head:

1) Shadows

With the lights running perpendicular to the benches, that'll be less
of a problem, too.


2) Mock-up lighting for testing purposes

Not mockup, but temporary installations.


3) Maybe I don't need "wrap-arounds" as much as I thought I did (they
are pretty though).

You'll waste less time replacing bulbs down the road if you don't have
them on there, too. And you can dust bulbs when they're open.


4) Further switch possibilities. BTW, my existing two lights are powered
by a separate panel (my main panel) which I like. But I only installed
one extra light switch this summer! Ahhhhh! There's more than one way to
switch a light though...I'm not ready to tear my new drywall down yet.

This is a good time to learn how to successfully install a patch into
a sheet of drywall.


5)Further lighting references, etc.!

At least this time around, I know 6000K is not necessarily "Brighter
Than" 5000K! I'm getting there. : )

Hell, Bill. In just six to ten more months, you'll likely have the
answer!

--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson