On Oct 20, 9:22*pm, (Nestor Kelebay)
wrote:
responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/Bathroom-Remodel-Demo-Job-ol...

Homesnowersbub.com is a joke. Thought you should know.

KOS wrote:

I've read the other posts to this thread, and I've done this kind of work
many times and never found that the expanded metal corner bead in the
wall/ceiling corner to be that much of a problem.

What I did was use a plastic laminate knife (the kind with the single
tungsten carbide tooth at the end of the "blade") to score deeply into the
plaster along the wall/ceiling corner. *I would make two such score lines;
one along the wall/ceiling corner line and another about 3 inches below
and parallel to the first score line. *Then I'd use the laminate knife to
widen the upper score line so that I could cut through the metal corner
bead with a pair of tin snips. *Since the metal corner bead is nailed on,
and I had cut through the plaster below the corner bead, once I got one
end of the corner bead exposed, I could just pull it off the wall. *As
long as you cut through the expanded metal right at the corner, the whole
flange will pull off relatively easily up to each nail. *Then you have to
spend a few minutes removing the nail, and it pulls off easily until you
get to the nail after that, etc.

I take it you don't own an angle grinder with a diamond wheel. It
cuts through the plaster and metal lath without all of that scoring.
Just put the blade in the wall/ceiling corner at 45 degrees and blaze
away. It reaches to within a few inches of an inside corner and then
you can break out the snips.

If it were me, what I would do is remove the old tiling and see what the
plaster under it looks like. *If the plaster behind the tile is in good
shape, I'd leave it and tile over it. *If that plaster is very water
damaged, I'd probably replace the water damaged plaster with 1 piece of
1/4 inch plywood covered with a 1/2 inch thick sheet of cement board (or
Georgia Pacific's Denshield) and tile over that.

Denshield is basically greenboard. Tile pros don't really like the
stuff.
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ight=denshield

If the old tile was stuck on with mastic, you can remove that old hard
mastic with a Nestor scraper, named after it's inventor. *To make a Nestor
scraper you simply grip the back edge of a single edge razor blade using
the ends of the jaws of "needle nose style" locking pliers. *You then use
a heat gun to soften the old mastic and scrape it off the wall with the
Nestor scraper. *Wear a leather glove in your working hand because the
Nestor scraper will get pretty hot.

I take it you don't own a painter's five-in-one tool...or any other
scraper...or visegrips. What do you do exactly?

Also, put a piece of scrap carpet pile side down in your tub before taking
any tile off. *That will protect the tub from getting all scratched up by
the pieces of tile. *Also, use a piece of cord and a hose clamp to fasten
the cold chisel you use to remove the old tiling to your wrist. *That way,
if you drop the chisel, the cord will catch it before it hits the tub and
causes a big chip.

Hose clamp? Why not just have a loop in the end of the cord to slip
over your wrist?

I'd leave the good plaster up and tile over it. *And, I'd tile right to
the ceiling.

I've tiled well over 20 bathrooms, and you can see pictures of my work on
my web site at:

Me, too. Then I put in another twenty years.

R