On Oct 16, 12:16*pm, Ecnerwal
wrote:

So your pressure switch didn't do the trick, eh? Take failing pressure

Hi,

Thanks for the information, some of which I can't follow but will read
the posting a few more times. The Furnas pressure switch is working
fine, but the pump pressure is still dropping about 1-psi every thee
days.

I isolated the pressurizing accumulator so that the pump is delivering
straight to an outlet. Interestingly enough, I still have 6gpm open
flow. When I turn the outlet off, it takes about 10 minutes (without
the accumulator) for the pressure to build to cut out at 32-psi.

My static water level is at 231-ft. The well is 315-ft and
perforations 260-ft to 315-ft. Measured free flow discharge at
installation with the pump at 235-ft was 20-gpm according to the well
test report dated Nov. '99.

I have just found the original Flint and Walling installation
instructions for the pump at 300-ft and it shows 7.3-gpm at 20-psi
discharge and does not give a figure for 40-psi discharge. The 40-psi
discharge figure is for 250-ft and nothing beyond that. The F&W pump
has been quoted at $1026.

Looking at the Myer pumps they do seem to be a lot less expensive and
with a better warranty but I am unsure on how to compare what I had
here when it was all working correctly. Also found the instructions
for the Well-Mate 87 gallon accumulator so not sure where the 200-
gallon comes in that was stated to me.

I will call Myers Monday. I used the term "Urgently" as I need to get
one here quickly so that the well-guy who thinks it is just a split
pipe can replace the pump if it has to be pulled all the way to the
top. If it is as he suspects a split near the top, I will keep the old
pump down there until it dies. It seems like the split may be at the
top as the water flows immediately (accumulator isolated) so it may
not be far down from the top check-valve and cheap to repair for the
short term.

Thanks for the help. For the time being I still have water.

Dave