On Sep 28, 8:14*am, Bob Villa wrote:
On Sep 28, 6:57*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Sep 28, 7:18*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

On Mon, 27 Sep 2010 14:52:25 -0700, "Steve B"

wrote:

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
.. .
KC wrote:

On Sep 26, 7:07 pm, Jon Claude Killy wrote:
How do I know to replace a carburetor on a small engine instead of
rebuilding the carburetor?

Have you priced a new carburator lately? Do it and you'll answer your
own question.

I've said before that they were too cheap to spend any time/money
futzing with an old one--- but I've met resistance every time so I
quit posting it. * * I guess it is a matter of choice & what else one
might do with that time to frustrate themselves.

Jim

They get $5 or more for the little rubber primer bulb on a Briggs. *Can't
imagine what they would want for the whole carb.

About $50 for most of the ones I've priced in the last few years. I
hate to waste $30, a day of running around, remove, clean, replace,
pray- and then find out it was one of those balls under a Welch plug
that won't reseat. * *For $50- I remove, replace, and start the
engine. [the last two I got were dead on adjusted from the factory.]

*Look yours up-

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/bri...gine_parts.cfm
[his site search sucks so I use the part number & Google it once I get
to his site]

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I remove, clean, and put back on. *No running around. *Cost $0.

On 2_cycle carbs: turn Hi and Lo screws in (until they lightly bottom)
half turn at-a-time (make a note of each); spray WD or carb cleaner
into the holes (with spray tubes); turn screws until they lightly
bottom and back-out as you previously noted for each.
No dis-assembly. *No running around. Cost $0.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's fine on my 30 year old chain saw. But if you've bought
anything recently you'll find that it has no high/low screws. They
are factory set and blocked or otherwise unaccessible.