On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 09:22:34 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:


Block of wood, inch wide, two inch thick, big enough to hold in the
bench vice.

Make a slot to a hole (2" long) that fits the cable (one for each size
of T&E, and one for inners). File the edges of this so that they're
bell-mouthed enough to let the cable pull through easily, but hold the
cable precisely in place in the middle.

Sawcut down, on the line you want to cut.

Insert a Stanley knife blade into the sawcut. Use cheap blades
(they're rubbish, but they have two screw holes in) and begin by
laying them on the side of the block of wood so that they are pointing
up as a small cutting spur. Align this at about 30 degrees (point
nearest is upwards, as you cut on the pull). Mark the screw holes,
then carefuly drill for a couple of 3mm screws. Insert the blade into
the sawcut and hold it in place with the two screws.

You should now have an accurate hole, with a little sharp spur
sticking up.

Insert cable, grip nearest end with pliers (or Mole grips!) and pull.
Keep pressure downwards to keep it over the knife edge.

For T&E, a deep knife alongside the earth works best. For singles, cut
shallow but get it on centre. The cable doesn't fall apart
afterwards, unless you cut it very carefully, but the core will pop
out with a tug as the PVC splits easily once you've got a good nick
into it.

I realise it saves them time and hassle if the customer strips the
wire, so I can see why stripping it yourself would give you a better
price but I'm not sure I could be bothered to go through all that
hassle. Is the process is quicker than it sounds? I suppose once you
have built the jig, you could use it time and time again quite
quickly.

I wonder how much more you get per kg if it is stripped? A big
difference might make me do the work next time!

Thanks.