"Upscale" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 21 Jul 2010 00:54:18 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:
Get yourself a couple of push pins, the kind that you use to pin notes on
a
cork bulliten board. The more HD the better.
Measure, place a pin at the mark allowing for the width of the pin. Do
the
same on the other end. Slide the track up to touch both pins, clamp,
remove
pins, cut.

Good idea. Anything that saves me from having to wheel back and forth
is fine as far as I'm concerned.

I was wondering about one thing. Cutting with a power saw, one would
normally put the good side down because of blade rotation and perhaps
have it backed up by a sacrificial board underneath. ~ all fine for
reducing splintering. With the TS55 or TS75 if you prefer, they make
use of those green splinterguards. Have you experimented with cutting
with the good side up allowing for the splinter guard to reduce tear
out and splintering? If so, how well does the splinter guard fulfill
its task?

So far the only cutting I have done is with 1/2" baltic birch. The angle
that the teeth exit the cut have a lot to do with whether there will be much
possibility of tear out on the top side. Cutting at 20 mm deep so far has
produced great results with no tear out. The top splinter guard does not
come into play with the blade cutting at that depth, it needs to plunge
deeper to be able to reach the guard.

Experiment with scraps to get a feel of what will be necessary.






BTW, also bought a handle for the CT22 today when I was picking up the
TS55. It was a little bit of pain to install, but I finally got it
figured out. It's convenient having the handle available for moving
the CT22 around and also having a few vacuum accessories clipped to a
part of the handle attachment pieces.